World on a Plate: Shrimp and grits

World on a Plate: Shrimp and grits

Some dishes so speak of a region that they are touchstones of the local cuisine. In general, we think of shrimp and grits as quintessentially Southern. Let's face it—most Yankees can't tell grits, cornmeal, and polenta apart. More specifically, we think of shrimp and grits as a signature dish of the coasts of both Carolinas and Georgia. In the best possible scenario, the dish employs fresh shrimp just off the boat. But the wide availability of excellent flash-frozen shrimp has certainly spread the dish far from its origins. One of the most memorable versions we've had was prepared at the Lexington, Kentucky branch of Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse (101 West Vine St., Lexington, Ky.; 859-554-7000; jeffruby.com/lexington). The small regional chain originated in Cincinnati and has since...Read More
Apple of concord: a Greek cake for autumn

Apple of concord: a Greek cake for autumn

We've always thought of apples as the quintessential New England fruit brought from Old England. But apples lie at the heart of some of the best of the ancient Greek stories. Gods and humans alike coveted the golden apples that Gaia presented to Hera and Zeus as a wedding present. They were said to confer immortality and promised immunity to hunger, thirst, and illness. To cause trouble, the goddess of discord (Eris) stole an apple, inscribed it ‶to the fairest,″ and lobbed the Apple of Discord into the wedding crowd. Goddesses scrambled for it, arguing to whom it should belong. Paris was drafted to decide. In the Judgment of Paris, he awarded it to Aphrodite, who in turn awarded him Helen of Troy. Cue the...Read More
World on a Plate: couscous in Marrakech

World on a Plate: couscous in Marrakech

If you're as crazy as we are for the melange of spices in ras el hanout, you're also probably equally fond of couscous and the various soups, or tagines, that accompany it. Couscous is treated like a grain, but it's actually a pasta made from semolina flour. We know that because one of us spent a significant amount of time rubbing and rubbing the granules with olive oil to ensure that the couscous would ‶steam up light as air,″ in the words of our teacher at Marrakech's Souk Cuisine Cooking School (soukcuisine.com). It was a cooking class that radically changed our cooking habits. In fact, that's the couscous we helped make pictured above. It happens to be with a tagine featuring pumpkin, sweet onions, carrots,...Read More
Branzino on the Weber—that’s Greek for fish

Branzino on the Weber—that’s Greek for fish

Greeks consume about 43 pounds of fish per capita every year, roughly comparable to American consumption. The main difference is that Americans eat a lot of fried fish (calamari, clams, popcorn shrimp, fish filet sandwiches) and Greeks who can afford it favor fin fish. Part of making fish affordable is sustainable aquaculture. Greek aquaculture produces almost all of the world's supply of branzino. The European sea bass, which the French call loup de mer is also a restaurant staple from New York to San Francisco. It's the fish you'll probably get in Athens when you order whole fish—unless you get gilthead bream, another farmed fish. Above, the photo shows grilled seabream from a little street cafe just down Veikou from our rental apartment. It's simply...Read More
World on a Plate: beet salad in Jordan, Ontario

World on a Plate: beet salad in Jordan, Ontario

As harvest season bears down on us here in northeastern North America, we're reminded of some of the great dishes we enjoyed during visits to the wine country of Ontario's Niagara Peninsula. Beets are popping up in all colors at our Cambridge, Massachusetts farmers markets, and they only make us hanker for the beet salad (shown above) that we enjoyed at On the Twenty (3845 Main St., Jordan, ON; 905-562-5336, vintage-hotels.com/inn-on-the-twenty/dining-experience/) in Jordan Village, Ontario. The restaurant is part of Inn on the Twenty, the classy getaway hotel across the street. It's part of the Vintage Hotels group, which emphasizes luxury stays in Niagara wine country. We are happy to note that On the Twenty restaurant was able to reopen for patio and indoor dining...Read More
Chicken meat enriches classic Greek egg-lemon soup

Chicken meat enriches classic Greek egg-lemon soup

The moment we saw eggs stacked up in the Athens Central Market—all sold individually by weight!—we had an immediate hankering for egg-lemon soup. It had been one of our lunchtime standards at home even before we ever got to visit Greece. David has fond memories of the soup because he once edited a small weekly paper housed upstairs from a diner run by Greek immigrants. As he and the production crew would fuss over page layouts (this was in the day of paste-ups of paper type laid down with hot wax), they would send downstairs for cartons of egg-lemon soup. Each came with its own rolled and lightly steamed round of pita bread. The key was not spilling any eggy soup on the layouts. By...Read More
World on a Plate: eating fried green tomatoes

World on a Plate: eating fried green tomatoes

Now that it's September, we're entering another phase in our tomato watching. We're coming to the end of the ripe tomato season for the determinate varieties, but the indeterminate tomatoes have kept flowering and setting fruit. From an evolutionary perspective, this is a pretty dumb move. Frost will kill the plants and spoil the fruit before it ripens. Even the seeds will be too green to sprout another year. So while we enjoy the last plates of insalata Caprese, we're considering how to turn the immature fruit to good use. Before any of you readers bombard us with pickle recipes, we're going on record that we already have enough pickles to last the winter. So now we're trying to think of good ways to eat...Read More
Greek tomato soup far surpasses anything canned

Greek tomato soup far surpasses anything canned

The Greeks have legitimate claims on inventing western civilization, but we're pretty sure that they didn't invent tomato soup. But they might have perfected it, which doesn't really surprise us given all the delicious tomatoes we ate while we were in Greece. After a hot, humid summer, we're delighting in the kind of bright, fresh early fall days that New England is known for. That first hit of cool air always makes us start thinking about soup and this Greek recipe for tomato soup is a great way to use up the less gorgeous but still tasty end-of-season ripe tomatoes. It makes a rich and satisfying soup that has only the most remote kinship with the stuff that comes in cans. We like our soup...Read More
World on a Plate: Tea at Niagara’s Prince of Wales

World on a Plate: Tea at Niagara’s Prince of Wales

As we swing into the fall harvest season, we wish more than ever we could be visiting the Niagara Peninsula in Ontario. It's the fruit and vegetable capital of eastern Canada and one of the country's tastiest destinations. Its biggest community, Niagara-on-the-Lake, is a model of grace and propriety. That's something sorely lacking in our strife-riven country to the east and south. But we understand why the Canadians want us to stay on our own side of the border. During the War of 1812, American troops effectively destroyed Niagara. Undaunted, the Ontarians rebuilt Niagara-on-the-Lake with a Victorian splendor that it retains today. The Prince of Wales Hotel (6 Picton Street, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON, Canada; +1 905 468 3246, vintage-hotels.com/prince-of-wales/) was constructed in 1864 in the heart...Read More
World on a Plate: the cult of New Mexico chile peppers

World on a Plate: the cult of New Mexico chile peppers

It was a very different August when we stumbled onto the Santa Fe Farmers' Market (santafefarmersmarket.com) on our way back from Abiquiú, and the scent of roasting green chiles transported us to a kind of nirvana. (We're happy to report that the market is open and following careful health and safety protocols to protect against COVID-19.) There are chile peppers and then there are New Mexico chile peppers. They are in a league of their own, balancing heat levels from mild to mildly scorching. Many chileheads think in Scoville units—the scale that measures perceived level of chile burn. They nibble habañeros and bird chiles with macho abandon, insisting through the tears washing rivulets in their faces that ‶this ain't hot.″ They're probably the same folks...Read More