Chicken

Green chile chowder an all-season pleaser

Green chile chowder an all-season pleaser

During our sojourn in Santa Fe last spring, we took ample advantage of green chile — even though the vegetable was out of season. Every supermarket stocked at least a few brands of frozen green chile. The peppers were invariably fire-roasted, peeled, and chopped. While frozen green chile doesn't seem to have made it to our Boston-area markets, seeing local chiles at the farmers markets reminded us of a favorite dish we made in Santa Fe. That would be green chile corn chowder, amped up with diced roasted chicken and simmered with potato cubes. The potato cubes are a New England thing, we suspect. But with corn, potatos, and some green chiles in the local markets, we revived the dish for the sudden chill of...Read More
Legendary Western vibe still animates Las Vegas, NM

Legendary Western vibe still animates Las Vegas, NM

Long before Nevada's famous Sin City sprouted in the desert, a New Mexico town by the same name was literally America's gateway to the West. Set in the foothills of the Rockies just west of the Great Plains, Las Vegas, N.M., flourished as a key node on the Santa Fe Trail. For traders heading west from Old Franklin, Missouri, Las Vegas was the first city they would encounter after more than a thousand miles crossing the open plains. That was assuming they survived the weather, the outlaws, and various bands of Indigenous warriors who thought they had no business there. Las Vegas's heyday began with the Mexican-American War, when U.S. forces used the Santa Fe Trail to invade Mexican territory in 1846. The arrival of...Read More
Chicken at Stroud’s skips the fryolator

Chicken at Stroud’s skips the fryolator

When we researched Kansas City, Kansas, we expected to find that the James Beard Foundation had bestowed the America's Classic designation on a barbecue joint. But instead, the Beard folks have honored Stroud's as “The Home of Pan Fried Chicken.” Actually, Stroud's did begin life as a barbecue restaurant in the 1930s, but introduced pan fried chicken during World War II when beef was scarce. The original Stroud's, which sounds like a colorful joint, closed in 2006. But the pan fried chicken has demonstrated real staying power. The restaurant now has three locations including the one we visited in Overland Park (8301 West 135th Street, Overland Park, Kansas; 913-499-0135; stroudsrestaurant.com). The modern restaurant sits in a little shopping mall. But our waitress told us that...Read More
Following James Beard to Santa Fe

Following James Beard to Santa Fe

Since 1998, the James Beard Foundation has honored a handful of “America's Classics” each year. The foundation probably didn't intend the list to be a travelers' database for touring the country, but that's exactly how we use it. When we set out at the end of March to drive from the Boston area to Santa Fe, we broke the trip into 7- to 8-hour segments, then looked for an America's Classic. We knew that these homey, often mom-and-pop casual restaurants would guarantee a welcoming place with local character after a day on the road. Once we'd settled on a place to eat, we looked for a nearby modest motel. The Anchor Bar (1047 Main Street, Buffalo, NY; 716-883-1134; anchorbar.com) in Buffalo, New York, was our...Read More
Tortilla soup: Mexico’s world class comfort bowl

Tortilla soup: Mexico’s world class comfort bowl

Because our trips to Mexico have mostly focused on the central highlands, we've been acquainted with tortilla soup as long as we've been going to Mexico. You might find it in some coastal resorts, but it's primarily a staple of the inland Mexican cities. We can't count how many different versions we've eaten over the years. Sometimes the soup is gussied up with fresh chopped herbs, cubes of avocado, or diced hard-boiled egg. Often it is simply thin chicken broth thickened with fried tortilla strips. But we've never eaten a bad version of tortilla soup. Sitting in a small back room or under the arcade (as in Morelia, above), tortilla soup makes a dependably tasty and economical lunch. Over the years, we've perfected a version...Read More
Greeks know elemental simplicity of kebabs

Greeks know elemental simplicity of kebabs

We can just imagine the invention of the kebab sometime in the Paleolithic era. Stone-age Barbecue Bob was grilling a whole haunch of ground sloth impaled on a tree branch over an open fire. As the haunch began to cook, it would eventually fall off the stick into the fire. And Bob would throw a cursing fit. A woman at the cave no doubt looked up from grinding wild grass seeds into flour. She observed that if Bob cut the haunch into smaller pieces, he could thread them on a stick and they would cook faster and remain ash-free. Ta-da! Bob's Kebabs was born. He got all the credit around the cave complex for this wondrous new invention. She got a break from his whining,...Read More
Learn Japanese home cooking from Rika Yukimasa

Learn Japanese home cooking from Rika Yukimasa

Since 2011, Rika Yukimasa has hosted ‶Dining with the Chef,″ which is a big hit on Japan's own NHK and appears on some PBS stations in the U.S. Many of her more than 50 cookbooks have been translated into Chinese and Korean. But as far as we can tell, Rika's Modern Japanese Home Cooking (Rizzoli, New York, 2020; $40) is her debut in English. (By the way, she went to college at the University of California/Berkeley before returning to Japan to work for advertising giant Dentsu.) The book came out at the end of March, but we've been distracted and just got around to it. Our loss! Here's the link to buy it on Amazon. Yukimasa's subtitle for the book is ‶Simplifying Authentic Recipes.″ She's...Read More
LEON makes us happy again, this time with curries

LEON makes us happy again, this time with curries

Between the ubiquitous Gordon Ramsey and ‶The Great British Baking Show″ on PBS, the long-battered reputation of British food is enjoying something of a rehabilitation. Moreover, the LEON restaurants, which launched in London in 2004, inoculated British cuisine with the idea that healthy eating and fast food were not necessarily mutually exclusive. The chain spread its gospel of ‶Naturally Fast Food″ to Washington, D.C., in 2018 and has started building more in the capital region. By our count, LEON Happy Curries (Octopus Publishing, London, $19.99) is the eighth cookbook in the LEON series showing how to replicate the restaurant's dishes and philosophy at home. But this book is a little different than the earlier ones. It represents the magnificent fusion of a homely European cuisine...Read More
Chicken Pastis: Liquor cabinet cookery

Chicken Pastis: Liquor cabinet cookery

As most of our readers have already surmised, we are first and foremost wine drinkers. But we are also travelers, and sometimes the taste of place comes from a headier libation. Over the years, we have accumulated a liquor cabinet of spirits, apertifs, cordials, and what David's father used to call “snorts.” (When the last of the sipping whiskey was gone on a Sunday afternoon and the stores were all closed, he'd invariably go to the mixer cabinet and announce, “Let's have a snort!” Sometimes that meant an evening of Drambuie or anisette, but too sweet was better than dry.) Some of the bottles shown above are more than mere snorts. They make excellent sippers by themselves. It's just that we don't sit around sipping...Read More
What’s for dinner? Meike Peters has a plan for that

What’s for dinner? Meike Peters has a plan for that

We consider ourselves adventurous eaters who enjoy trying out recipes and experimenting with new dishes at home. But, like most people, we have a few old reliable dishes. This summer, we ate lots of Caprese salads with just-picked garden tomatoes and a cold pasta that we concocted with basil pesto, corn, and grilled chicken. We can't help but be impressed with Meike Peters, who chronicles a new dish for every day in 365: A Year of Everyday Cooking & Baking, Prestel, $40). Peters has been sharing recipes on her Eat in My Kitchen blog (meikepeters.com) since 2013, drawing inspiration from the hearty German comfort food of her youth and the lighter Mediterranean diet of Malta, where she spends part of the year. Even so, coming...Read More