Sopa de ajo cures whatever ails you

Sopa de ajo cures whatever ails you

When we were working on our various guidebooks to Spain, we would often spend an intense period of time researching and photographing from dawn into dark. We really couldn't afford any down time. But when we arrived in Madrid one January for a month of work, David was completely knocked out by a head and chest cold. He picked up an over-the-counter cold syrup from a friendly farmacia and promptly went to bed. Pat hit the streets with notebook and camera in hand. When she returned to our room at the Room Mate Oscar (room-matehotels.com) in Chueca that evening, she dragged David from the bed, made him get dressed, and headed for the outdoor dining spots around Plaza Mayor (photo above). Her answer for David's...Read More
An Irish solution to dark and dank winter days

An Irish solution to dark and dank winter days

Not long ago, when travel was a tad more carefree, we spent Boxing Week in Dublin. That's the week between Christmas and New Years. December 26 has been ‶boxing day″ forever, but the merchants of Ireland and the United Kingdom have made what evolved into a one-day sale into a week-long event of inventory-trimming bargains. The mercantile nature of Boxing Week, it turns out, transforms a potentially grim and depressing holiday letdown period into a social occasion that turns out crowds in the streets. It also fills the cafes and pubs with shoppers whose cheeks are ruddy with the cold. Truth be told, it's a lot warmer in Dublin than in Boston. For us, visiting at the turn of the year was actually a respite...Read More
Hearty fare from the Dolomites in Alto Adige

Hearty fare from the Dolomites in Alto Adige

You might be wondering what the heck this photo has to do with soup. The picture shows the unveiling of the speck at a Speckfest. David attended the festival in the mountains of Alto Adige near the Austrian border. Like so many of the edges of what is now Italy, Alto Adige was long considered part of another country—Austria, to be exact. In fact, it's known in the local German dialect as Sudtirol, or South Tyrol. Our soup this Saturday (when we are forecast to receive around 2 feet/60 centimeters of snow) is warming winter fare. The Alto Adige version of barley soup gets much of its flavor from speck, the smoked mountain ham that is something of a fetish in the region. It's such...Read More
French onion soup chases ‘les températures glaciales’

French onion soup chases ‘les températures glaciales’

When we arrived in Paris in January 2020, the French were shivering and complaining that the temperature was downright glacial. Of course, that meant ‶freezing,″ as in 0 degrees Celsius or 32 degrees Fahrenheit. For New Englanders, that was winter as usual. We could always duck indoors to warm up. But not the Parisians. For all their griping, they flocked to their beloved sidewalk cafes. Come hell, high water—or hell frozen over—they were determined to eat outdoors. And following their example, so were we. The French have perfected winter outdoor dining. A combination of windbreaks, awnings, and overhead sidewalk heaters combine to make the tables in the salle à manger en plein air passably comfortable. As you might expect, Parisians also know how to dress—and...Read More
Hungarian gulyás launches Soup Saturday

Hungarian gulyás launches Soup Saturday

A small tuxedo-clad orchestra doesn't serenade us when we eat Hungarian gulyás soup at home. Too bad. It was a nice touch when we tasted our first authentic Magyar version of the dish in Budapest at the legendary Gundel restaurant (HU-1146, Gundel Károly út 4., Budapest; +36 30 603 2480; gundel.hu). Often bastardized as ‶goulash,″ gulyás (pronounced GOO-yash) has been the country's national dish since the early 19th century. That designation was made to differentiate Hungarian cuisine from the Austrian cooking of their oppressors of the moment. The soup's historic roots offer a nice international analogy to the chile con carne of Texas. Magyar herdsmen would spice, cook, and dry the flesh of lean cows culled from their herds and pack the meat into their...Read More
What to eat at Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International (CVG)

What to eat at Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International (CVG)

In the interest of flying stain-free, I usually try to avoid messy foods when I'm in the airport. But I couldn't pass up the chance to try the namesake specialty at Gold Star Chili at the airport serving Cincinnati and northern Kentucky. Chili—most often ladled over a big plate of spaghetti and topped with grated cheddar cheese—has been a Cincinnati specialty since Greek immigrants introduced it in 1922. A century later, Cincinnatians proudly claim chili as a signature food. As food trends come and go, it's always comforting to have a satisfying, filling meal that you can count on. The James Beard Foundation even recognized Camp Washington, which opened in 1940, as one of America's Classics. The Beard list has rarely steered me wrong, so...Read More
May your New Year bubble over with joy!

May your New Year bubble over with joy!

Popping open a bottle of sparkling wine seems like an occasion in itself. But when we perused our Google Photos feed with the search term ‶champagne,″ we were reminded of occasion after occasion of good times, good food, good drink, and good company. See the photo montage for a taste of cava, crémant, Champagne, Prosecco, or just plain sparkling wine. Cheers! Prost! Salud!
Neat is nifty, but stirred into a cocktail might be neater

Neat is nifty, but stirred into a cocktail might be neater

When I asked folks in the spirits industry in northern Kentucky how they took their Bourbon, the answer was invariably the same. “A healthy pour, neat.” Some admitted to adding an ice cube or a few drops of water to open up the taste. But nothing else. These professionals take their spirits seriously and relish the pure flavor and warm glow of unadulterated Bourbon. Nonetheless, most agreed that Bourbon's star had risen when the TV series Mad Men revived interest in classic cocktails. The spirit is still riding high as a versatile component of today's creative cocktail culture. I'm truly not much of a cocktail drinker, so I never ordered a Manhattan or an Old Fashioned and the weather wasn't cool enough for a Hot...Read More
Bourbon is not just for the glass

Bourbon is not just for the glass

Patti and I found good company and good conversation on our trip to northern Kentucky Bourbon country. We also tasted some great Bourbon, but the spirit wasn't always confined to the glass. With its complex bouquet of flavors, it's not surprising that Bourbon complements sweet and savory dishes alike. Following are a few of my favorites. FLAVORS OF FRANKFORT In Kentucky's state capital of Frankfort, distillers used to roll barrels from their warehouses down the streets to flat-bottomed boats waiting to ferry the whiskey down the Kentucky River. A different type of commerce holds sway these days. One night before dinner, I strolled through the historic downtown and discovered a retail district full of local character. Crafts stores featured Kentucky folk artists and an independent...Read More
Bardstown proudly claims ‘World Capital of Bourbon’ title

Bardstown proudly claims ‘World Capital of Bourbon’ title

Patti and I ended our tour of northern Kentucky's Bourbon country in Bardstown. Settled by colonists in 1780, it's the second oldest city in the state. But it doesn't play second fiddle to anyone when it comes to Bourbon. Signs throughout town proclaim Bardstown as the World Capital of Bourbon. Founded a year before the community, the former stagecoach stop of Old Talbott Tavern (Court Square, 502-348-3494, talbotttavern.com), shown above, deems itself the oldest Bourbon bar in the world. Bardstown supports its claim with Kentucky's greatest concentration of distilleries. Eleven distilleries fan out in a twenty-mile ring from the gracious former courthouse that houses Bardstown's Welcome Center. That cluster includes such pioneers as Jim Beam, which was established in 1795. But newcomers keep popping up,...Read More