Restaurants

The two-handed taste of New Mexico

The two-handed taste of New Mexico

We love a good food origin story. Just to prove it, we drove more than two hours each way from our base in Santa Fe to San Antonio. San Antonio, New Mexico, that is — not Texas. The little village of fewer than 100 people is the birthplace of the Green Chile Cheeseburger. Now it's true that the burger has practically become synonymous with the state of New Mexico. There are, after all, 51 stops on the state's Green Chile Cheeseburger Trail. (newmexico.org/things-to-do/cuisine/culinary-trails/green-chile-cheeseburger-trail/) It's hard to imagine that there was ever a time when New Mexicans weren't munching down on their signature burger. But New Mexicans seem to agree that the Green Chile Cheeseburger first appeared at the Owl Bar, opened by Frank Chavez and...Read More
Chile Friday at Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta

Chile Friday at Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta

A mariachi band was playing along the fence and the aroma of roasting green chile wafted through the air at the entrance to Fort Marcy Park in Santa Fe. There was no doubt about it: It was Chile Friday as the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta (santafewineandchile.org) reached its climactic weekend of five days of eating, drinking, and talking about food and wine. The Fiesta began as a single Saturday afternoon event in 1991 with 20 restaurants and 20 wineries. Counting all the specialty wine dinners leading up to the broader public events, it now features more than 60 participating restaurants and 90 winery partners. Chile Friday joined the lineup just three years ago. The emphasis is on chile-based food. The 2024 showcase featured...Read More
Eating at the omphalos of the breakfast burrito

Eating at the omphalos of the breakfast burrito

At the temple of Apollo at Delphi in Greece, a round stone covers a deep hole that plunges into the earth. According to myth, this well stone is a sacred spot that marks the center of the earth — the bellybutton from which all creation sprang. If you like breakfast as much as we do, Tia Sophia’s (210 West San Francisco Street, Santa Fe, NM; 505-983-9880, tiasophias.com) is the omphalos of the breakfast burrito. A breakfast and lunch stalwart just off the plaza in downtown Santa Fe since 1975, Tia Sophia's specializes in New Mexican comidas nativas, or local cooking. Founders Ann and Jim Maryol aspired to create a casual diner serving good food at good prices and catering to local tastes. This was back...Read More
Short and sweet, fika keeps Swedes on an even keel

Short and sweet, fika keeps Swedes on an even keel

In a country where the compound-noun penchant of the Swedish language makes many place names inscrutably complex for foreigners (think Fjäderholmarna or Malmskillnadsgatan) it's a relief to find short words that are nonetheless key to daily life. Take takk, for example, or hej. (‶Thanks″ and ‶hi,″ respectively.) Fika is just as important as a social lubricant. It's usually translated as ‶coffee break,″ but it is much more than a quick snack. It's an occasion — maybe even a ceremony — that happens at least once a day and usually involves socializing. Going for a fika essentially means catching up with a friend or colleague over a cup of coffee and a snack (usually sweet). Although Sweden doesn't begin to rival Finland for coffee consumption, Swedes...Read More
Vaxholm summer Sunday feels like a garden party

Vaxholm summer Sunday feels like a garden party

We chose a sunny Sunday morning for our next excursion into the Stockholm archipelago. We were hardly the only ones with that idea. The ferry from Strömkajen was full of folks out for a day on the water or decamping to their summer homes for a month or more. On the 90-minute trip to Vaxholm, the ferry stopped about a dozen times to let people off. For us it was a great way to get a better sense of the physical layout of the archipelago itself. We also got a peek into the way of life for people who live in the midst of this floating garden. The water was very placid. David observed that compared to his days on the Maine coast, the tidal...Read More
Our Manhattan farewell in a few images

Our Manhattan farewell in a few images

We've probably consumed too many of the slow-dissolve photo montages looking back on the year just concluded. Or too many listicles of the greatest fill-in-the-blanks. But we can't help concluding our series of Manhattan posts with a shout-out to some of the folks in the food industry who made that month so memorable. The urge to feed people is a kind and generous impulse. Thanks to these folks who made us feel appreciated. Here's back at you. Waitress at Junior's in Brooklyn, counter grill cook at S&P Lunch, waiter at Lombardi's Food cart operator for Nathan's Famous, waiter at Sylvia's, waitress at Lexington Candy Shop Frankie Frank at Hajji's Deli, hot dog server at Katz's Delicatessen, counter woman at Magnolia Bakery
Sylvia’s carries the banner for Harlem soul food

Sylvia’s carries the banner for Harlem soul food

When we visited Sylvia's Restaurant (328 Malcolm X Boulevard, New York, NY; 212-996-0660, sylviasrestaurant.com) a few days before Thanksgiving, our server Ali reminded us that we could return on the holiday if we wanted. ‶We're full up on reservations,″ he said, ‶but if you have no place else to go, we'll fit you in. Sylvia's believes no one should go hungry on Thanksgiving.″ That same spirit of welcome embodies Sylvia's throughout the year. Founded in 1962 by Sylvia Woods (whose family still operates it), the restaurant remains a standard-bearer of authentic soul food. Moreover, it's a community favorite, a touchstone of urban Black culture, and a Mecca for politicians courting the Black vote. Some of their photos line the walls, along with signed photos of...Read More
Bourbon House knows the season’s spirits

Bourbon House knows the season’s spirits

I didn't make it to Dickie Brennan's Bourbon House (144 Bourbon St., New Orleans, La.; 504-522-0111; bourbonhouse.com) for a Reveillon dinner. But there was always lunch. I didn't want to leave New Orleans without enjoying a plate of shrimp and grits. One of New Orleans top seafood restaurants seemed like just the right place. With plump shrimp, spicy sausage, and creamy grits, the dish (at right) hit all the right flavor notes. I'd always assumed that the restaurant took its name from its location on the French Quarter's fabled Bourbon Street. But it turns out that proprietor Dickie Brennan, scion of a celebrated family of New Orleans restaurateurs, is a Bourbon connoisseur. The bar stocks about 250 American whiskeys. It's said to be the most...Read More
New Orleans feasts make merry at Christmas

New Orleans feasts make merry at Christmas

Decorating a tree and baking cookies are fine Christmas traditions. But New Orleans has an especially festive — and tasty — tradition that I wish other communities would adopt. In this city where people's love of good food is exceeded only by their love of a good party, about 50 restaurants offer the chance for both. Starting after Thanksgiving and running through December, they create fixed-price four-course menus that are too good to resist. That was certainly the case for me and my friend Patti as we enjoyed a holiday reunion earlier this month. Click here for the full Reveillon list. Families, friends, and work colleagues fill many of the tables, but visitors are warmly welcomed. If you want to really fit in, wear something...Read More
Nathan’s is why hot dogs are called coneys

Nathan’s is why hot dogs are called coneys

We swear there's a Nathan's hot dog cart on practically every street corner in Manhattan. And we've eaten our share of the ‶famous″ franks as peripatetic lunches. On a sunny day in late November, with the temperature predicted to rise into the 50s, we made the pilgrimage to Coney Island, where Nathan's (1310 Surf Avenue, Brooklyn; 718-333-2202; nathansfamous.com) all began. For once, we could sit down to eat. From midtown, it took nearly an hour to get to Coney Island on the F train, giving us an appreciation of the extent of the metropolitan subway system. Once we reached Brooklyn, the last stretch of the route rose onto tracks elevated above the rooftops. We knew we were getting close when we spotted the Wonder Wheel...Read More