Greece

Pastitsio ends our Greek sojourn with comfort fare

Pastitsio ends our Greek sojourn with comfort fare

Posted on by Pat and David
Our nearly four-month exploration of Greek cuisine has netted us some dishes that we expect to stay in the rotation for years to come. Most rely on the goodness of fresh local produce, so we thought the arrival of autumn was an auspicious time to conclude our research. Frost is on the way, and outdoor grilling gets harder and harder as the temperature drops and darkness falls earlier and earlier. We decided that the best cool-weather Greek dish for us to perfect would not be any of the many variations of Greek lamb stews, but instead the dish sometimes called ‶Greek lasagna.″ A baked casserole, pastitsio contains layers of tubular noodles, a meat sauce, and a cheese-laden béchamel. While the tomatoes in the meat sauce...Read More
Apple of concord: a Greek cake for autumn

Apple of concord: a Greek cake for autumn

Posted on by Pat and David
We've always thought of apples as the quintessential New England fruit brought from Old England. But apples lie at the heart of some of the best of the ancient Greek stories. Gods and humans alike coveted the golden apples that Gaia presented to Hera and Zeus as a wedding present. They were said to confer immortality and promised immunity to hunger, thirst, and illness. To cause trouble, the goddess of discord (Eris) stole an apple, inscribed it ‶to the fairest,″ and lobbed the Apple of Discord into the wedding crowd. Goddesses scrambled for it, arguing to whom it should belong. Paris was drafted to decide. In the Judgment of Paris, he awarded it to Aphrodite, who in turn awarded him Helen of Troy. Cue the...Read More
Branzino on the Weber—that’s Greek for fish

Branzino on the Weber—that’s Greek for fish

Posted on by Pat and David
Greeks consume about 43 pounds of fish per capita every year, roughly comparable to American consumption. The main difference is that Americans eat a lot of fried fish (calamari, clams, popcorn shrimp, fish filet sandwiches) and Greeks who can afford it favor fin fish. Part of making fish affordable is sustainable aquaculture. Greek aquaculture produces almost all of the world's supply of branzino. The European sea bass, which the French call loup de mer is also a restaurant staple from New York to San Francisco. It's the fish you'll probably get in Athens when you order whole fish—unless you get gilthead bream, another farmed fish. Above, the photo shows grilled seabream from a little street cafe just down Veikou from our rental apartment. It's simply...Read More
Chicken meat enriches classic Greek egg-lemon soup

Chicken meat enriches classic Greek egg-lemon soup

Posted on by Pat and David
The moment we saw eggs stacked up in the Athens Central Market—all sold individually by weight!—we had an immediate hankering for egg-lemon soup. It had been one of our lunchtime standards at home even before we ever got to visit Greece. David has fond memories of the soup because he once edited a small weekly paper housed upstairs from a diner run by Greek immigrants. As he and the production crew would fuss over page layouts (this was in the day of paste-ups of paper type laid down with hot wax), they would send downstairs for cartons of egg-lemon soup. Each came with its own rolled and lightly steamed round of pita bread. The key was not spilling any eggy soup on the layouts. By...Read More
Greek tomato soup far surpasses anything canned

Greek tomato soup far surpasses anything canned

Posted on by Pat and David
The Greeks have legitimate claims on inventing western civilization, but we're pretty sure that they didn't invent tomato soup. But they might have perfected it, which doesn't really surprise us given all the delicious tomatoes we ate while we were in Greece. After a hot, humid summer, we're delighting in the kind of bright, fresh early fall days that New England is known for. That first hit of cool air always makes us start thinking about soup and this Greek recipe for tomato soup is a great way to use up the less gorgeous but still tasty end-of-season ripe tomatoes. It makes a rich and satisfying soup that has only the most remote kinship with the stuff that comes in cans. We like our soup...Read More
Fassolia Piaz: Greek bean salad for summer

Fassolia Piaz: Greek bean salad for summer

Posted on by Pat and David
Back in March, when no one knew what the pandemic food supply chain would be like, we reflexively purchased bags of dried beans. They were cheap, shelf-stable supplies that could guarantee a source of quality protein if we were suddenly faced with food insecurity. In hindsight, we overreacted. On the bright side, we have a lot of beans on hand to make summer salads. Fassolia piaz is the Greek variant. In its simplest form, boiled beans are mixed with chopped parsley, lemon juice, and olive oil. We like it expanded a bit to include chopped tomato, chopped cucumber, and skewers of fresh tuna cooked over hardwood charcoal. That makes it the Greek cousin to Salade Niçoise. You could add Kalamata olives or even sliced hard-boiled...Read More
Olympian Greek laurels for swordfish kebabs

Olympian Greek laurels for swordfish kebabs

Posted on by Pat and David
This is a spectacular time for fish in New England, so we've decided to take our Greek culinary research seaside. Well, not really seaside, since our backyard grill is a good mile from the ocean. On a recent market run, we were surprised to see fresh swordfish steaks, since this is mainly yellowfin tuna season in New England. But asking the fishmonger, we found that the sword was caught in Canada and landed in New England—close enough to home for us. When we discovered that the same market had fresh bay leaves—European bay laurel leaves, not the more eucalyptus-scented California bay—we knew we were in business. (They were from Goodness Gardens: goodnessgardens.com/bay-leaves.) Greeks love to thread fresh bay between pieces of swordfish for grilled kebabs....Read More
Greeks beat the heat with watermelon salad

Greeks beat the heat with watermelon salad

Posted on by Pat and David
Even Hippocrates, the ancient Greek father of medicine, was apparently a watermelon fan, prescribing the fruit as a diuretic. (He also suggested treating children with heat stroke by placing cool, wet rinds on their brows.) But the good doctor had nothing to say about watermelon as food. That could be because watermelons of his era were still at least as bitter as an overgrown cucumber. A half millennium would elapse before farmers were raising the sweet modern watermelon. But the Greeks made up for lost time. One of the quintessential summer delights of Greek cuisine is some variation of watermelon salad. There are really only three essential elements: pieces of watermelon, mint leaves, and crumbled feta cheese. Personally, we like to add cubed pieces of...Read More
Greeks know elemental simplicity of kebabs

Greeks know elemental simplicity of kebabs

Posted on by Pat and David
We can just imagine the invention of the kebab sometime in the Paleolithic era. Stone-age Barbecue Bob was grilling a whole haunch of ground sloth impaled on a tree branch over an open fire. As the haunch began to cook, it would eventually fall off the stick into the fire. And Bob would throw a cursing fit. A woman at the cave no doubt looked up from grinding wild grass seeds into flour. She observed that if Bob cut the haunch into smaller pieces, he could thread them on a stick and they would cook faster and remain ash-free. Ta-da! Bob's Kebabs was born. He got all the credit around the cave complex for this wondrous new invention. She got a break from his whining,...Read More
Finding a Greek solution to the zucchini problem

Finding a Greek solution to the zucchini problem

Posted on by Pat and David
Every gardener knows the zucchini problem. When you ordered seeds in January, you were dreaming of ratatouille—maybe even of zucchini bread with sunflower seeds that turn inexplicably green. Then the reality hits about this time of summer. Zucchini sounds like a great idea. So does keeping rabbits—until you're suddenly overrun with rabbits. Or squash. Pre-pandemic, you could invite friends over, get them well lubricated, and send them home with a bag of zukes. Or bunnies. Such solutions don't work in the COVID era. The Greeks take a more pragmatic attitude toward zucchini proliferation. During the season, they throw zukes into everything. One of the tastier light dishes is a bake that falls somewhere between a frittata and an unfussy souffle. There are zillions of different...Read More