We have all become pilgrims, if only in spirit, during our days of worldwide plague. The sign above marks a bar in Plaza del Rey, San Fernando in Burgos, Spain, named ‶The Pilgrim.″ The insignia above the name shows the scallop shell of Santiago (St. James) on a field of blue—the universal marker along all the variants of the Camino de Santiago.

We say ‶variants″ because there are innumerable paths that lead finally to the cathedral in Santiago de Compestela in Galicia, just as there are a multitude of paths to any form of enlightenment. One of the most popular routes of the Camino is the French Way across northern Spain from Roncevalles (where the Basques repulsed Charlemagne’s forces led by Roland in 778) west to Santiago. That route passes through northern Castilla y León—after it goes through parts of Navarra and La Rioja. The pilgrim at left seems clean and fresh. We spotted her in Burgos, probably near the beginning of her journey.

Since we are staying at home and donning our masks whenever we venture outside, we find ourselves journeying inward more than outward. We have been drawing increasingly on the culinary pleasures of past journeys. A few days ago, when the weather consisted of bone-chilling drizzle, we were reminded of miserable pilgrims coming in off the road in Santo Domingo de la Calzada in La Rioja. Nothing so warms the cold body in Spain as this stew of potatoes and chorizo. It also takes the chill off spring in New England or wherever you are sheltering in place.

Patatas a la riojana is an unfussy recipe

We have messed around a little with tradition to make this dish with whatever foodstuffs we can get. This stew hails from the Ebro River valley in La Rioja, but until Napoleon brought potatoes to northern Spain in the early 19th century, this dish was made with chestnuts! Of course, nowadays the Ebro valley potato varieties are so highly prized that the Riojanos keep them for themselves. Not only do they have the rich potato flavor of say, a Kennebec, they also keep their shape like a waxy potato while containing enough starch to thicken a broth. We discovered that a mix of waxy potatoes (Red Bliss are the easiest to find) with some starchy potatoes like russets both thickens the stew and provides some toothy pieces of potato.

The Riojanos also have a special way of cutting their potatoes to maximize the exposure of starch to the broth. Hold the scrubbed, unpeeled potato and insert a sharp small knife at a 45 degree angle to the surface. Dig in about an inch, then twist the potato to make a conical cut. Snap out the piece, and continue until the whole potato is cut into irregular, roughly conical pieces. It’s a quick way to cut up potatoes with a small knife and the resulting snap is surprisingly satisfying.

Spanish chorizo is usually available in U.S. grocery stores that cater to a Latin American clientele (or from Amazon). Other types of chorizo are less spicy; if substituting, double the garlic and add an additional teaspoon of paprika.

This version of the dish is adapted from chef Raúl Pérez Marín of Restaurante Sopitas in Arnedo, southeast of Logroño, the capital of La Rioja.

PATATAS A LA RIOJANA

INGREDIENTS

1 ancho chile pepper, stemmed and seeded and torn into pieces
1/2 cup boiling water 1/4 lb. (two large) russet potatoes
1 1/2 lb. Red Bliss or other waxy potatoes
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled, cut into quarters and thinly sliced
1 large red bell pepper, seeded and roasted to remove skin, cut into 1-inch pieces
3-4 large cloves of garlic, sliced thinly
1 large fresh tomato, cored and skinned, coarsely chopped
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon smoked Spanish paprika
8 oz. Spanish chorizo, cut in 1/2-inch slices
1 cup dry wine (white or red)
3 cups chicken or beef stock
coarse sea salt and black pepper to taste
chopped parsley to garnish

DIRECTIONS

Soak dried chile pieces in boiling water for a half hour. Puree in blender or food processor. Set aside.

Cut up potatoes. Peel russets and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. (They will almost disappear and provide the thickening.) Scrub the waxy potatoes and cut into irregular, more or less conical shapes about 1 inch on widest dimension. Set potatoes aside.

Heat olive oil over medium heat in 4-5 quart Dutch oven or other large pot. Add onion and bell pepper and cook until onion is soft. Add garlic, tomatoes, and bay leaf and cook until most liquid has evaporated. Stir in thyme and paprika and cook another 30 seconds.

Add chorizo and raise heat to lightly brown the meat. Add the puréed pepper.

Stir in potatoes and add wine. Bring to boil and cook 3 minutes to burn off alcohol. Stir in broth and raise to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes.

Remove about a cup of potatoes from the stew and mash with a little liquid. Stir back in and cook another 5 minutes.

Serve in shallow bowls with a little chopped parsley sprinkled on top.