Day of the Dead

Toasting Santa Fe’s Day of the Dead

Toasting Santa Fe’s Day of the Dead

Someday I'll look back and say that I was there at the beginning. When my friend Patti and I left San Antonio, Texas, we flew to Santa Fe, New Mexico, for that city's first official Day of the Dead observances. Santa Fe's two-day gathering was more modest that San Antonio's well-established event. But what it lacked in size, it made up for in heart. We missed the Friday-night kick-off, but were on hand for the full-day of events on Saturday. Early in the day, people gathered in Santa Fe Plaza to prepare ofrendas (as the altars to deceased loved ones are called), listen to strolling mariachis, and have their faces painted as skeletons and Catrinas. As darkness fell, lights twinkled from the trees and the...Read More
Food is key to San Antonio’s Day of the Dead

Food is key to San Antonio’s Day of the Dead

Readers might recall that David and I visited Patzcuaro, Mexico, to be part of the Day of the Dead observances of late October and early November. The trip was everything I hoped it would be — and more. I was heartened and somehow comforted by how naturally Mexicans honor their departed loved ones while simultaneously celebrating life. Folks left favorite foods and drinks at gravesites. Then they headed to the main plaza to eat and drink and embrace life. The experience so resonated with me that I jumped at the chance to join my friend Patti at Day of the Dead observances in San Antonio, Texas, and Santa Fe, New Mexico. We started in San Antonio, where the self-proclaimed largest Day of the Dead celebration...Read More
Faces of Pátzcuaro, Mexico, on the Day of the Dead

Faces of Pátzcuaro, Mexico, on the Day of the Dead

[caption id="attachment_7757" align="aligncenter" width="1832"] Island cemetery in Lake Pátzcuaro is decorated with marigolds. [/caption] In this COVID year, every ‶normal″ celebration seems a little strange, even abnormal. Yet there is something comforting, even reassuring, about marking our festivals. To forget them is to lose continuity with our past. This year, we'll again seek out marigolds to honor family members who are no longer with us. And we'll make a dinner with mole amarillo, the saffron-scented marigold-colored sauce popular in this season in many parts of Mexico. We will also remember the faces of Pátzcuaro, the colonial city of 80,000 in the Mexican state of Michoacán. Thanks partly to Disney's Coco and partly to glossy travel stories, Pátzcuaro has become almost too famous for its Day...Read More
Pan de Muerto: sustenance for Día de los Muertos

Pan de Muerto: sustenance for Día de los Muertos

We don't need to be convinced that food plays a central role in people's lives and cultures that goes way beyond the basic need for sustenance. But if we did need proof, Mexico's Day of the Dead observances would be Exhibit A. On November 1, families decorate the graves of their lost loved ones with marigold flowers. It's a custom, several women told us, that brings them close to their loved ones and makes them feel contento (content). The bright orange flowers almost cover the gravestones and their pungent aroma fills the air. We've really never seen anything else quite like it. As we looked more closely, we realized that families also leave personal belongings and mementos that their loved ones had enjoyed in life....Read More
An appetite for Day of the Dead in Michoacán

An appetite for Day of the Dead in Michoacán

Thanks to the many Mexican families who have settled in the United States, we have had a good introduction to Day of the Dead observances. In recent years, we've even caught some stateside glimpses of both the pageantry and the solemnity of the occasion. Last fall we decided to go to the roots of this holiday that blends All Souls' and All Saints' days in the Christian calendar with pre-Columbian ceremonies connecting the worlds of the living and the dead. The lakeside mountain community of Pátzcuaro is the most celebrated spot in Mexico for Day of the Dead ceremonies. It is one of what the Mexicans call the pueblas mágicas (magic towns). We joined the throngs who flocked there at the end of October and...Read More
In Mexico, even the dead enjoy a feast

In Mexico, even the dead enjoy a feast

We recently returned from Mexico, where we joined the observations of the Day of the Dead in Pátzcuaro, Michoacán. Wherever we went, the air was filled with the vaguely pungent, slightly rank smell of marigolds. Farmers filled the beds of their pickup trucks to lug vast heaps of flowers to market. Native to central Mexico, "cempasuchitl" (the Nahuatl name for marigolds) are abundant in the late October rainy season. By tradition, their bright color represents the sun lighting the way for souls to return on the Day of the Dead. Their aroma also draws the deceased back to the world of the living. Marigolds abound in public spaces and private homes, where people use them to brighten the ofrendas so central to the celebration of...Read More