In my journey along the Costa Brava, I spent June 23 — the day before the feast of San Juan — in Alicante. The city was electric with anticipation. My fellow travelers and I walked through the city squares to see the satirical displays set to be burned that night. Then we positioned ourselves near City Hall to take in the spectacle of the ‶flower parade″ (photo above). The queen candidates wore embroidered long dresses with multiple petticoats and the male revelers dressed in Goyaesque constumes that with pirate-like headbands. At midday, we were all were greeted with fireworks and a cacaphony of loud explosions.
The ruckus was just the beginning, of course. To fortify ourselves for the swelling street scenes of live music, marching bands, and tables spread with snacks, we went to lunch. Now it so happens that my favorite way to eat lunch in Spain is at a bar where the kitchen shows some imagination and ambition. We struck gold with Cuatrolatas (Plaza Gabriel Miró, 4, Alicante; +34 601 30 35 02; facebook.com/cuatrolatasbar/). Just a few streets up from the waterfront, the restaurant-bar sat at a remove from the main action. That made it perfect for catching our breath. Manager Lola (in the brown apron) made us welcome. Chef Cristina (black apron with great glasses) sent out plate after plate.
We dug into cold cuts, olives, and assorted munchies while Cristina cooked. Among the delights she sent our way were a salad of tomatoes and fresh tuna (left) and stewed oxtail folded inside steamed buns like tacos (center). The dish at right was everyone’s favorite. It is a coca (a flatbread) topped with bacon and barbecue sauce. I decided it was a Spanish barbecue pizza.
