Meeting the master of meat

BrunoBassettoBruno Bassetto of Treviso, Italy, knows meat. The 61-year-old butcher set a Guinness World Record in October by crafting a salamella—a kind of fresh pork sausage—more than 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) long. I had the good fortune to watch him trim a piece of round and make steak tartare in seconds with a pair of huge knives. But beyond his obvious showmanship, Bassetto is also a master of charcuterie. In addition to fresh meat, his butcher shop (via Mantiero 22, Treviso; 011-39-0422-231-945, www.brunobassettocarni.it) also carries fresh and cured sausages, which range from slender little pepperoni to a great expression of the local Veneto sopressa (a soft, cured sausage about 3 inches in diameter). carne crudaIn late fall and winter, he also makes a cooked pork sausage that incorporates the surprisingly sweet Treviso radicchio. It’s worth a stop to pick up a sausage for a picnic in the surrounding countryside (he makes plenty that are short enough to carry) and to shake the big, strong hand of the master of meat.

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