When we spent the better part of a week in Maine recently, we spent a day exploring some of the touchstone haunts of the modern-day patron saint of the environmental movement, Rachel Carson. She was the epitome of scientific and literary rigor—the long-time chief editor of U.S. Bureau of Fish and Wildlife publications and the impassioned popular science writer whom some credit for saving whole swathes of the avian world from extinction. Between tidepools and typewriter, though, she knew how to relax and enjoy herself. She often treated herself to the restaurant at the Newagen Inn (60 Newagen Colony Road, Southport, Maine; 207-633-5242, newagenseasideinn.com).
So we did the same. The photo at the top of this post shows the view from the restaurant’s outdoor porch seating. It’s a remarkably historic spot, where English explorer Christopher Levett met with Wabenaki sagamores Menawarmet, Samoset and Cogawesco for four days in December 1623 to establish a fort and trading post that lasted until King Philip’s War.
The young chef at The Pub, as the inn calls its dining spot, offers a breezy, summery menu that relies heaviuly on local seafood—including Damariscotta oysters and Boothbay/Southport lobster and crab. But he also works some magic with local produce. Asparagus season was still in full swing and the soup of the day (other than clam chowder) was cream of asparagus. It was intense, creamy, and rich enough to make you want to lick the bowl. He was too busy in the small kitchen to pry the recipe out of him, but when we got home, we made a successful run at it based on the asparagus stock we make when we prepare asparagus risotto. Here’s the result.
CREAMY ASPARAGUS SOUP
INGREDIENTS
- 1 1/2 pounds green asparagus
- 3 cups chicken broth, divided
- 3 tablespoons butter, divided
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- 1 cup cubed raw potato
- 2 tablespoons flour
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
- lemon juice to taste (1/6 lemon squeezed)
DIRECTIONS
Trim asparagus to reserve the flower tips for separate steaming as a garnish. Snap off the woody ends and peel remaining pieces, placing all the discards into a soup pot. Add chicken stock, bring to a boil, and simmer for 20 minutes. Puree stock, woody ends, and peels. Strain and reserve strained liquid.
Wipe out soup pot and heat 1 tablespoon butter. Add chopped onion and cook until soft.
Cut remaining asparagus stalks (not tips) into short lengths. Add asparagus, potato cubes, and strained stock to soup pot and cook 10 minutes. Puree with immersion blender. Strain and reserve.
Wipe out soup pot and heat remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Sprinkle flour over melted butter and cook over low heat until roux begins to brown. Whisk in strained liquid and continue to heat, stirring until thick.
Meantime, steam asparagus tips for 90 seconds so they are tender but still bright green.
Stir cream into soup and serve in wide bowls with asparagus tips as garnish.