Perfect BLT substitutes lobster for lettuce

BLT lobster roll

We just returned from a Maine sojourn, where we observed first-hand two of the most-talked-about phenomena of this summer. National park mania was on full display at Acadia National Park. The massive parking lot at Hulls Cove Visitors Center was jammed. Island Explorer buses whisked in and out of the lot every few minutes, carrying tourists to spots throughout the park and into downtown Bar Harbor. It was a model of efficient crowd management. It was also good to see the National Park system collecting much-needed fees.

Wherever we went in Maine, we also observed rampant lobster roll fever. We’re finally into the season when freshly caught lobster is abundant. Most Gulf of Maine lobsters haven’t molted yet, so the meat remains firm and sweet. It’s hard to screw up a lobster roll if the meat is cooked properly and the tail is shredded enough to mix well with the claw and knuckle meat. A good brioche bun also helps.

But there are a few ways to embellish the basics and we were pleased to find one fresh take. Bar Harbor Lobster Co. (297 Main St., Bar Harbor, Maine; 207-288-2529; barharborlobsterco.com) featured a basic lobster roll with 5 ounces of meat, mayo, lettuce, and scallion slices on a butter-toasted brioche bun, and a ‶big lobster roll″ with double the meat.

But the menu’s most ingenious variant added something extra without gilding the lily. The BLT lobster roll—bacon, lobster (5 ounces), and chopped tomato on toasted brioche—was just right. The mayo was so minimal that we could barely find it. The tomato added a touch of acid and the bacon provided a nice crunch and salty umami. The additions were complements to the lobster instead of distractions. Even the cranky ex-lobsterman in our party was happy.