Valencia

Empanadas make the handiest of lunches

Empanadas make the handiest of lunches

Posted on by Pat and David
When we first started writing guidebooks to Spain, we had so much ground to cover that we never had time for the two-hour midday lunch. Fortunately, we quickly discovered that most bread bakeries made great turnovers with various savory fillings. An empanada or two of tuna, ground beef and onions, or ham and cheese could keep us going all afternoon. We have more time now, but we still love empanadas. Moreover, they help with balancing the food budget since some cost just over a euro each. Here in Valencia, we've discovered a couple of stalls in the Mercado Central that offer tasty empanadas at a good price. We usually go to Pan Estelles (bottom of the post on the right) for their excellent French bread....Read More
Tastarròs, when the city plaza is a giant cookout

Tastarròs, when the city plaza is a giant cookout

Posted on by Pat and David
We're not quite sure what people like most about Tastarròs. Without a doubt, they love the opportunity to sample a whole range of rice dishes from some of the city's and region's best chefs. They also welcome the opportunity to rub elbows. Maybe all the more so after two years of quarantines and mask regulations. As a people, Spaniards are about as social as any nationality on earth. They are in their element in a crowd of other Spaniards eating and drinking. (No wonder we feel at home here!) The organization of the ticketing system is quite good. Instead of fumbling to pay at each table, participants line up and purchase color-coded tickets. Rice dishes were €4, wine and beer €1 and €1.5, respectively. Appropriately...Read More
Tastarròs toasts Valencia’s gastronomic heritage

Tastarròs toasts Valencia’s gastronomic heritage

Posted on by Pat and David
Once in a while, we have perfect timing by accident. One year, when we arrived in Spain to research a new guidebook, we stumbled into the Trujillo National Cheese Festival in Extremadura. Us and 10,000 or so Spaniards. When we landed in Valencia on a Friday this year, we had just enough time to shake off our jet lag before Tastarròs began the next day. Spaniards rarely miss a chance to throw a party, and when they can combine the party with the celebration of some kind of food—all the better. “Tastarròs” is a Valencian word that translates more or less as “taste of rice.” The rices of Valencia have protected status in the European Union and are considered part of the region's heritage. The...Read More
Back to Spain – and the great Valencia market

Back to Spain – and the great Valencia market

Posted on by Pat and David
Since flying back from Paris in early February 2020, we basically stayed home in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Over the last two years, we got fully vaccinated and boosted, washed our hands raw, and wore KN95 masks everywhere except in open spaces. We continued to test negative after a few close exposures to COVID-19, so all the precautions seemed to be working. (Fingers crossed.) It was time to return to Europe. As soon as we began looking for an apartment in Spain, one jumped out at us. It was in Valencia (visitvalencia.com), a city we wanted to know better but where we had already discovered that the food was fantastic. When we saw a spacious one-bedroom literally across the street from the Mercado Central, we leapt at...Read More