Diner

Eating at the omphalos of the breakfast burrito

Eating at the omphalos of the breakfast burrito

At the temple of Apollo at Delphi in Greece, a round stone covers a deep hole that plunges into the earth. According to myth, this well stone is a sacred spot that marks the center of the earth — the bellybutton from which all creation sprang. If you like breakfast as much as we do, Tia Sophia’s (210 West San Francisco Street, Santa Fe, NM; 505-983-9880, tiasophias.com) is the omphalos of the breakfast burrito. A breakfast and lunch stalwart just off the plaza in downtown Santa Fe since 1975, Tia Sophia's specializes in New Mexican comidas nativas, or local cooking. Founders Ann and Jim Maryol aspired to create a casual diner serving good food at good prices and catering to local tastes. This was back...Read More
NYC luncheonettes reprise a simpler time

NYC luncheonettes reprise a simpler time

Across Fifth Avenue from the Flatiron building, S&P Lunch (174 5th Ave., New York, NY; 212-691-8862; sandwich.place) hardly toots its own horn. A plaque in the window reads simply ‶A Great Place to Eat Since 1928.″ Judging by the crowds waiting for a seat at 11:15 on a Sunday morning, the modest luncheonette doesn't need any more publicity than that. We love old-fashioned luncheonettes. S&P is the real deal, boasting vinyl-clad stools along a long counter and a grill menu of eggs and sandwiches. We joined the queue that started just inside the door and ultimately scored our preferred seating. No booth in the back for us. We prefer the counter, preferably right in front of the grill. In deference to S&P traditions, we ordered...Read More

Red Arrow big burger grabs headlines

Old-fashioned diners certainly love their giant burgers. We wrote about the Miss Washington Diner in New Britain a few weeks back, marveling at the monstrous burger called The Monument. In a piece in today's Boston Globe about the 24-hour Red Arrow Diner (61 Lowell Street, Manchester, N.H. 603-626-1118, www.redarrowdiner.com), we came face to face with the Newton Burger, presented above by general manager Herb Hartwell. In all fairness, the Red Arrow does serve salads, Jell-O, and other low-fat options, but the main clientele seems to gravitate to some of the heavier entrées. The place is known for its mugs of chili and its baked mac and cheese. And its burgers. A burger on toast was on the menu when the Red Arrow opened in 1922,...Read More

Eat hearty at the Miss Washington Diner

Our story about New Britain, Conn., is in today's Boston Globe (“Industrious city enjoys artful update”). But we didn't have the space to write more extensively about the Miss Washington Diner (10 Washington St., New Britain, 860-224-3772, www.misswashingtondiner.com, breakfast and lunch $3-$11). Dan Czako, shown above, has been the owner of this early Fifties gem since 2011. Constructed in the optimistic postwar Modernist style, the diner has 24 stools lined up along the long counter as well as a clutch of booths. Czako is the head cook and a whiz at the grill. He's big on hearty American meals at affordable prices. It's the perfect combo in this working-class city. The Miss Washington also offers one of those great eating challenges. Czako calls it The...Read More