Every year about this time we work our palates into a state of frenzy trying to enjoy the fleeting season of local asparagus. The farm at the head of the post is one of those legendary growers along the banks of the Connecticut River in Hadley, Massachusetts. Until verticillium blight struck after World War II, Hadley grew much of the country’s best asparagus. Good tillage practices and more resistant varieties have helped revive the asparagus industry in the Pioneer Valley, though it’s never going to be what it was.
It does mean that even 90 miles east in greater Boston, we enjoy a surfeit of the noble spears for a short time each year. And granting that one cannot live on asparagus risotto alone (hungrytravelers.com/remembering-italy-3-asparagus-prosciutto-risotto/), we do seek out other ways to consume it. We were looking through the cookbooks that had piled up from last fall, and pulled out a particularly useful one. It’s called From the Oven to the Table: Simple Dishes that Look After Themselves by Diana Henry (Mitchell Beazley; London, New York, Toronto, 2019; $29.99). One of Britain’s most beloved food writers, Henry is finally getting serious recognition here in the States. This particular book champions simple dishes that cook in the oven with almost no attention. They are truly hassle-free, and from those we’ve tried, invariably delicious. Directions are simple and clear, revised for American standard measures, and gorgeously illustrated with photographs by Laura Edwards. (That’s her image of a plate below.) See Henry’s other books at her website: www.dianahenry.co.uk.
Henry’s approach to asparagus in From the Oven to the Table is delightfully simple, adding a few creamy and umami notes to complement the vegetable without overwhelming it. Here’s her utterly straightforward way to enjoy asparagus. While fresh ricotta can be hard to find, it’s a cinch to make at home. Gourmet Magazine published its creative director’s home recipe many years ago. Here’s the link: epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/fresh-homemade-ricotta-234282
ROASTED APARAGUS WITH RICOTTA & PECORINO CHEESE
Serves 4 as an appetizer or as part of a spread of dishes
The simplest of dishes and without the hassle of trying (and failing) to prop your asparagus spears up against the side of a saucepan. The stalks should ideally be about the same thickness so that they’re all ready at the same time. If you get good fresh ricotta—not the ultra-pasteurized stuff—this is food fit for the gods.
2/3 lb asparagus spears, of medium thickness
extra virgin olive oil
sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper
4 1/2 oz ricotta cheese (fresh rather than ultra-pasteurized, if possible)
pecorino cheese, or Parmesan cheese, shaved
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Trim the woody ends from the asparagus spears, put them on a sheet pan with a slight lip, and drizzle with olive oil. Season with salt.
Roast for 10–12 minutes, or until the asparagus spears are tender (test one of the thickest with the tip of a sharp knife).
Put the asparagus on a serving plate. Scatter the ricotta in nuggets over the top, followed by the shaved pecorino or Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper, pour on more olive oil, and serve immediately.