When we visit our friends in Lexington, Kentucky, they usually can guess our first question. “What’s Ouita been up to?” we ask, referring to chef Ouita Michel. In the two decades since she and her husband Chris Michel opened Holly Hill Inn (426 N. Winter St., Midway, hollyhillinn.com) in a mid-19th century Greek Revival home, Ouita has led the dining revolution in Bluegrass Country.
Ouita is fiercely committed to local growers and producers and is equally at home showcasing Kentucky products in fine and casual dining establishments. She now oversees nine restaurants and cafes, including two outlets of Smithtown Seafood (501 W. Sixth St., Lexington and 119 Marion St., Suite 160, Lexington, smithtownseafood.com). Here’s the link https://hungrytravelers.com/at-smithtown-seafood-local-is-measured-in-feet-2/ to our earlier post about this unique collaboration with FoodChain, an aquaponics facility producing salad microgreens and tilapia that may offer a glimpse at the future of farming.
On our recent visit, we checked out Honeywood (110 Summit at Fritz Farm, Suite 140, Lexington, honeywoodrestaurant.com), one of Ouita’s newest restaurants. In a departure from her more bucolic settings, it’s located in the Summit at Fritz Farm, a newly developed complex containing shops, restaurants, apartments, and even a hotel. But Ouita never loses sight of local history and food traditions. The restaurant honors the marvelously named Honeywood Parrish Rouse, who grew up at the Holly Hill Inn property in the early 20th century and was known for her genteel hospitality.
Lip-smacking flavors of Bluegrass Country
The Honeywood menu highlights Ouita’s penchant for updated Kentucky classics with dishes such as country ham biscuits, catfish sandwiches, and a marvelous combo of shrimp and fried catfish on Weisenberger Mill cheese grits. Here’s the link to our post about this family-owned mill that opened in 1865 and is still grinding away.
Ouita also pairs Weisenberger Mill grits with a pork chop and apple butter pork jus and uses Weisenberger Mill Fish Batter Mix for one of our favorite dishes, Honeywood Fried Oysters. Ouita serves the oysters with a spicy Buffalo Sauce and a Bourbon Bacon Jam that is so unctuously good that it’s tempting to put it on everything. (Honeywood also adds it to burgers.) Ouita kindly shared the recipe for this dish that showcases her flair for flavorful pairings. You can mail order the Weisenberger Mill mix, or substitute a 50/50 blend of all-purpose flour and corn flour seasoned with salt and pepper.
HONEYWOOD FRIED OYSTERS
1 pound oysters
4 ounces Weisenberger Mill Fish Batter Mix
Canola oil for frying
Heat canola oil to 350 degrees F. Dredge fish or seafood in the dry Weisenberger Mill mix, shake off excess breading and fry until cooked through and golden brown. Drain well in fry basket or on paper towels. Use immediately with Buffalo Sauce.
BUFFALO SAUCE
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 jalapeño, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 teaspoon ancho chile powder
1/8 teaspoon chipotle chile powder
Generous pinch cayenne
1 cup Crystal hot sauce (milder and lighter than Tabasco sauce)
Melt butter in sauté pan over medium heat. Add jalapeño, garlic, chile powders and cayenne and sauté until vegetables begin to soften, about 1 minute. Stir in hot sauce and remove from heat. Cool slightly before using.
BOURBON BACON JAM
Makes about 3 cups
1 pound thick-sliced bacon, diced about the same size as the onions
1 pound sweet yellow onions, diced small
1/4 cup whole-grain mustard
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup bourbon
1/2 cup cider vinegar
Start bacon in heavy skillet or cast-iron skillet over low heat. When completely rendered, pour off some of the grease, then add the onions and cook over low heat until onions are caramelized (dark golden brown and the same color as the bacon). Add the whole-grain mustard and warm it in the bacon fat mixture, then add brown sugar, bourbon and cider vinegar. The mixture should be dark, mahogany brown. Continue to cook over low heat 20–30 minutes until reduced to a jam consistency.
Cool the jam until it is still warm, but not boiling hot. Put in food processor and pulse until the onions and bacon break up but still have definition. Best when served slightly warm but also good at room temperature.