Green chile is the signature flavor of New Mexico. The plant seems to thrive in the thin soils along the river and stream valleys feeding into the Rio Grande. Many cultivars are named for the towns north of Santa Fe, like Española and Chimayó. Albuquerque-based Hatch Chile Company has become synonymous with the best green chile peppers on the planet. Simply put, chile is the cornerstone of New Mexican cuisine.
To get a taste of the state’s traditional cooking, my friend Patti and I drove about 25 miles north to the little town of Chimayó. Situated in a valley of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, the town is perhaps most famous for the Santuario de Chimayó, a Catholic chapel some believe to have healing powers. It’s also known for its weaving tradition that dates back to early Spanish settlers, and for cultivating a specific named chile pepper highly prized in the dried chile industry.
A legendary restaurant where chile rules
The best place to get a taste of that chile is at the Rancho de Chimayó restaurant (300 Juan Medina Road, Chimayo, NM; 505-351-4444, ranchodechimayo.com), itself a pilgrimage site for lovers of regional New Mexican cuisine. Founded in 1965 by Arturo and Florence Jaramillo, the restaurant occupies the late 19th century adobe hacienda built by Arturo’s grandparents. In 2016, the James Beard Foundation named Rancho de Chimayó as an America’s Classic. I don’t know what took the decision makers so long. I’ve found that the designation is a sure sign that an establishment serves good, honest food and is a mainstay of its community. Rancho de Chimayó delivers on both counts. Dining here feels like enjoying a meal with a very big family.
The menu grew out of dishes that Arturo enjoyed at family celebrations at his grandparents’ home. Florence, by the way, is a New Englander, but embraced the New Mexico cuisine and way of life. Red or green chile adds a punch of New Mexico heat and flavor to just about every dish.
I was tempted by the tamales, enchiladas, and carne adovada, but finally decided on a stuffed sopapilla. I’ve enjoyed the pillowy fried dough with honey more times that I can count. But I’ve never had one as a main course. The Jaramillos had enjoyed just such a dish in Mexico and may have been the first to introduce it in northern New Mexico. It’s a hearty meal of shredded chicken or beef, beans, and Spanish rice all stuffed into a big sopapilla. And, of course, it’s topped with cheese and green chile.
I was also tempted by the Jaramillo’s signature green chile stew. But you can only eat so much. Fortunately, the recipe is included in The Rancho de Chimayó Cookbook by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison. Florence Jaramillo graciously gave me permission to print the recipe here.
GREEN CHILE STEW
The Rancho’s flagship stew can be made with either cut of the pork shoulder, the butt or the picnic (sometimes called pork cushion meat). Lamb shoulder is also a tasty choice in equal quantity. A bowl of comfort after a day on the ski slopes of Taos, Angel Fire, or Santa Fe, the stew’s nearly as popular in midsummer.
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon canola or vegetable oil
- 2 pounds pork shoulder or lamb shoulder, cut in 3/4-inch cubes
- 1 medium onion, diced
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 5 cups water, or more as needed
- 1 1/2-1 3/4 pounds russet potatoes, unpeeled, diced in 3/4- to 1-inch chunks
- 2 cups chopped roasted mild-to-medium New Mexican green chile, fresh or thawed frozen
- 1 medium tomato, chopped
- 1 teaspoon garlic salt
- 1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
Serves 8
Warm the oil in a Dutch oven or large heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Sear and brown the meat in two batches. Reserve the first batch of seared meat on a plate. When the second batch of meat has browned, stir in the onion and garlic and cook for several minutes, until the onions become translucent.
Scrape the plated meat and juices back into the pan. Pour in 5 cups of water, which should be enough to cover the meat, and scrape the mixture up from the bottom to loosen any browned bits. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook uncovered for 45 minutes.
Stir in the potatoes, chile, tomato, garlic salt, and salt, and add more water if needed to keep the meat and potatoes covered. Continue cooking for another 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the meat is quite tender, the vegetables are soft, and the flavors have blended. Add more salt in the last few minutes of cooking if you think the stew needs it.
Ladle into bowls and serve hot.
Ahead-of-time note: Like most stews, this just improves when refrigerated for a day and then reheated.