One byproduct of running a print magazine, web site, and television show is that the folks at America’s Test Kitchen develop a tremendous number of recipes. One of their latest compendiums is The Complete Autumn & Winter Cookbook by America’s Test Kitchen (2021, $34.99). We’re happy to have it handy as the mercury plunges.
We’re also glad that the proprietors are not in the least chauvinistic about their name. The recipes in this volume span the globe, and many of them remind of us of meals we’ve eaten overseas. That might be the Greek beef stew, stifado, the intensely flavored Moroccan soup of lentils and tomatoes known as harira, or a lovely plate of porchetta made as it’s done in Rome.
Cooking from one of the ATK books is a dependable experience. The recipe header note usually explains ‶why this recipe works,″ aiming to educate the reader. In some cases, we pick up a tip that can be generalized to another dish. At worst, we know something new about the ingredients. The logical layout and clear directions make these recipes a pleasure to follow.
While we’re looking forward to trying some of the more exotic dishes, we started off with a variation on a wintertime favorite of ours in northern Europe: a celery root soup. In this case, it’s almost a New England variant, given the presence of fresh fennel, red potatoes, and grated apple.
CELERY ROOT, FENNEL, AND APPLE CHOWDER
Serves 6
Total Time 1-1/2 hours
VEGETARIAN
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
This sweet-and-savory vegetarian chowder presents a harmony of fall flavors. Grated apple added a fruity counterpoint to the earthy, herbal sweetness of celery root and fennel. White wine, garlic, thyme, and a bay leaf contributed savory notes. Celery root’s creamy-but-not starchy texture made it a wonderful base for a hearty chowder bulked up with chunks of tender red potatoes. Sautéing the fennel along with an onion before simmering brought out its anise flavor. For a bright citrus note, we simmered a strip of orange zest in the broth. Pureeing 2 cups of chowder with a modest amount of cream gave our soup the perfect amount of body. Minced fennel fronds added color to the finished soup. You can use any apple you like in this recipe.
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1 fennel bulb, 1 tablespoon fronds minced and reserved, stalks discarded, bulb halved, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
- 1-1/2 teaspoons table salt
- 6 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme or 3/4 teaspoon dried
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 4 cups vegetable broth
- 1-1/2 cups water
- 14 ounces celery root, trimmed, peeled, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
- 12 ounces red potatoes, unpeeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
- 1 apple, peeled and shredded
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 (3-inch) strip orange zest
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
1. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, fennel, and salt and cook until vegetables are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 1 minute.
2. Stir in broth, water, celery root, potatoes, apple, bay leaf, and orange zest and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, partially cover, and simmer gently until stew is thickened and vegetables are tender, 35 to 40 minutes.
3. Off heat, discard bay leaf and orange zest. Puree 2 cups chowder and cream in blender until smooth, about 1 minute, then return to pot. Stir in reserved fennel fronds, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.