After months of pandemic lockdown, I really needed a drink. So I was all in when my Kentucky friend Patti asked me to join her on a road trip through the northern edge of Bourbon country.
Kentuckians, I was to discover, take their Bourbon seriously. And no wonder. Barrels of aging Bourbon actually outnumber people. The Commonwealth of Kentucky has enough Bourbon to offer two shots to everyone in the United States. That’s everyone of legal age, I’m sure.
After decades of vodka inexplicably dominating the spirits market, Bourbon is enjoying a well-deserved revival. Just as foodies are embracing local products, drinkers are looking for unique and authentic spirits. Bourbon fits the bill. First distilled in Kentucky in the late eighteenth century, Bourbon was designated ‶America’s Native Spirit″ by the U.S. Congress in 1964.
It’s true that any American distiller can make Bourbon as long as they meet the specific requirements set by the government. That said, Kentucky still produces about 95 percent of the country’s Bourbon. Following the time-tested tradition, distillers start with a grain mixture with at least 51 percent corn and age the raw spirit for at least two years in new charred oak barrels.
I’m a wine drinker, so I hoped I wouldn’t embarrass myself (or Patti) among Bourbon aficionados who adeptly distinguish subtle nuances in taste and aroma. But Julie Kirkpatrick of the Northern Kentucky CVB told me not to worry. Women make up the fastest growing segment of Bourbon drinkers, so I’d be in good company. Moreover, Kentuckians consider Bourbon more than a beverage. It’s a way of life. Open a bottle when you want to enjoy good conversation with friends. That I can handle.
BOURBON IS A MOVABLE FEAST
Patti and I also wouldn’t have to worry about navigating. Kirkpatrick is one of the masterminds behind THE B-LINE GUIDE (thebline.com, map at goo.gl/83UPYN). It features an interactive map of distilleries, restaurants, and bars in Northern Kentucky along with a paper guide to collect stamps and take tasting notes at every place you visit.
We planned to concentrate on three small cities and surrounding communities. The state capital, Frankfort, is home to the oldest continuously operating distillery in the United States. Bardstown modestly calls itself the “World Capital of Bourbon.” Covington, just across the Ohio River from Cincinnati, was once one of the shipping centers for barrels of Bourbon headed downriver to New Orleans.
I met Patti at the Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport, which is actually located in Covington. We were going to spend the night at the Hotel Covington (638 Madison Avenue, Covington KY 42011; 859-905-6600; hotelcovington.com), located in the state’s first skyscraper and high-end department store. It was built with long-shot winnings from a horse race—but that’s a story for another time.
Across the street at the Hannaford Bar (619 Madison Ave, Covington, KY 41011; 859-261-2178; thehannaford.com), we celebrated our reunion and toasted our upcoming adventure through Bourbon country. Bourbon drinkers, I quickly discovered, are a friendly bunch. Covington mayor Joseph Meyer, above right, stopped by our table to say hello. He was carrying a glass of Bourbon and branch on the rocks. When pushed, he admitted that Basil Hayden is his Bourbon of choice.
“It goes down so easy,” he said.
Amen to that.