We’ve never been fans of corned beef and cabbage or, for that matter of green beer—the two principal food and drink ways Americans mark St. Patrick’s Day. Nor will we be in Ireland for the holiday, given the travel restrictions. Even Boston’s Drop Kick Murphys will play their annual St. Patrick’s Day concert online instead of in person. Here’s the link for the live concert on March 17 at 7pm Boston, 4pm Pacific Coast, 11pm London, 12am Berlin, or 10am in Sydney: www.dropkickmurphys.com/2020/03/14/streaming-up-from-boston-free-st-patricks-day-live-stream/

That’s all a prelude to telling you about the newest cookbook from Ireland’s culinary queen, the redoubtable Darina Allen. She runs the Ballymaloe Cookery school and is Ireland’s leading proponent of the Slow Food movement. She might have single-handedly brought Irish cooking into the modern age. Her newest book is in perfect tune with these mildly harrowing times. Called One Pot Feeds All: 100 new one-dish recipes from roasts to desserts, (Kyle Books, $24.99) it’s a compendium of dishes that can each be prepared in a single pot. They run the gamut from roasted spatchcock chicken to chocolate fudge pudding. Most are simple and straightforward, and since each uses juts one cooking dish, clean-up is easy.

Like American cookbook authors, Allen borrows heavily from other cuisines. She includes some excellent Mexican recipes and a slew of Mediterranean dishes, including some North African tagines. But for St. Patrick’s day, we thought it more appropriate to reprint her very homey dish that the Irish and English both share—Toad in in the Hole. It’s a variant of Yorkshire pudding, minus the suet and with sausages replacing the small bit of beef. Like so many classics of ‶poverty cuisine,″ it’s a great comfort food.

TOAD IN THE HOLE WITH LOTS OF FRESH HERBS

Serves 8

Based on a simple batter, this savory equivalent of the French dessert clafoutis can be whipped up in minutes. Here I use regular sausages, but I also love to use spicy varieties such as merguez or chorizo. A little grainy mustard adds extra oomph.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound homemade sausages or spicy sausages, such as merguez or chorizo
1–2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1–2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley, to serve

For the Batter

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
4 organic, free-range eggs
2 1/2 cups whole milk
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)
4 tablespoons mixed chopped herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, thyme, chives, and marjoram
1/2–1 teaspoon sea salt flakes and plenty of freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

Preheat oven to 450°F.

To make the batter, sift the flour into a bowl, make a well in the center, and crack in the lightly betaen eggs. Using a small whisk or wooden spoon and stirring continuously, gradually draw in the flour from all sides, adding the milk in a steady stream at the same time. Once all the flour has been incorporated, whisk in the remaining milk and melted butter, along with the mustard (if using) and the herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside to rest while you cook the sausages.

Heat a little extra virgin olive oil in a 9×16 roasting pan, 1 1/2 inches deep, add the sausages, and cook until golden on all sides.

Pour the batter over the sausages and bake for 20–25 minutes until the batter is risen and crisp. Sprinkle with chopped fresh parsley and serve.

Variation

Toad in the hole with jam and cream

For a quick sweet bite, make the batter as above and cook in individual patty pans or muffin pans. Top each with a dollop of jam and softly whipped cream in the center, and dust with powdered sugar to serve.