We spent a good part of last month in Spain working on a book update. That’s our excuse for the lapse in posting here. This trip involved an extended stay in Málaga. It was the perfect time to get reacquainted with the fish of the Costa del Sol — and with the delights of eating on the beach. The photo above shows the espartero of Restaurante Andrés Maricuchi (Paseo Marítimo el Pedregal, 14, Málaga; +34 952 20 06 12; andresmaricuchi.com). He’s broiling fish on a stake against wood coals burning in a rowboat filled with sand on Pedregalejo beach.

To be specific, he’s broiling sardines because that’s we ordered just minutes before. Maricuchi is one of a long line of beach restaurants in this former fishing village at the east end of Málaga — about a mile walk from the broad swimming beach of Playa Malagueta. Originally a fishermen’s tavern, it’s been in business since 1944. They’re actually best known for shellfish, but we were after sardines. Specifically, we were after sardines espeto.

The dish is immensely popular all along the Costa del Sol. It’s a relic of the 19th century, when poor fishermen made do with the leftovers from their catch. Sardines were plentiful and cheap then, and they still are. The fishermen would skewer (espetar) a bunch of sardines on a stake or a reed and grill them next to a small fire built in the sand.

An enterprising fisherman turned restaurateur made the dish a must-eat when he opened a beach bar called ‶La gran parada″ in 1882. It was the first chiringuito on the Costa del Sol. It was also the first to offer sardines espeto. When king Alfonso XII visited in 1885, the restaurant served him the specialty sardines. The king reportedly smacked his lips and attacked the plate with knife and fork.

“Not like that, your highness,” the espartero explained. “With your fingers!”

Diners have been asking for wet wipes ever since.

Here’s our plate of sardines over a 20-minute time lapse. Note the fork (whoops).