Some dishes so speak of a region that they are touchstones of the local cuisine. In general, we think of shrimp and grits as quintessentially Southern. Let’s face it—most Yankees can’t tell grits, cornmeal, and polenta apart. More specifically, we think of shrimp and grits as a signature dish of the coasts of both Carolinas and Georgia. In the best possible scenario, the dish employs fresh shrimp just off the boat.

But the wide availability of excellent flash-frozen shrimp has certainly spread the dish far from its origins. One of the most memorable versions we’ve had was prepared at the Lexington, Kentucky branch of Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse (101 West Vine St., Lexington, Ky.; 859-554-7000; jeffruby.com/lexington). The small regional chain originated in Cincinnati and has since spread to Louisville, Nashville, and Columbus, Ohio, as well as Lexington.

To be honest, shrimp and grits is not a menu staple at Jeff Ruby’s, but it does pop up often at the Lexington branch. Weisenberger Mill (weisenberger.com) is located nearby in Midway, and the artisanal miller produces grits from non-GMO Kentucky-grown corn. Because the small operation doesn’t grind a lot in advance, the grits are always fresh.

The Jeff Ruby company definitely understands the dynamics of a steakhouse. Not only must it produce outstanding steaks, it needs to inject drama into the dining experience. It’s hard to make grits particularly dramatic, even when they are cooked and served in cast-iron pots. But the shrimp is another matter. Simmered in butter until just tender, they are flamed with brandy before being served atop the grits. The big WHOOSH! of flame inevitably makes everyone in the room take notice.

They are also (no surprise) delicious.