As harvest season bears down on us here in northeastern North America, we’re reminded of some of the great dishes we enjoyed during visits to the wine country of Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula. Beets are popping up in all colors at our Cambridge, Massachusetts farmers markets, and they only make us hanker for the beet salad (shown above) that we enjoyed at On the Twenty (3845 Main St., Jordan, ON; 905-562-5336, vintage-hotels.com/inn-on-the-twenty/dining-experience/) in Jordan Village, Ontario.

The restaurant is part of Inn on the Twenty, the classy getaway hotel across the street. It’s part of the Vintage Hotels group, which emphasizes luxury stays in Niagara wine country. We are happy to note that On the Twenty restaurant was able to reopen for patio and indoor dining at the end of July. We are less happy to note that we can’t go there because Canada has wisely kept its southern border closed to protect Canadians against the spread of the novel coronavirus.

Inn on the Twenty used to be affiliated with Cave Spring Cellars (cavespring.ca), which has its headquarters literally next door in a historic limestone block building. The salad of roasted heirloom beets with a scoop of whipped goat cheese and a toasted hazelnut vinaigrette balanced the sweet earthiness of the beets with the light tang of the goat cheese and pleasantly ashen touch of a smear of burnt honey. And it was perfect with Cave Spring’s dry rosé, made chiefly from Cabernet Franc.