We made an exception of scheduling only dinner at James Beard American Classics when we discovered an irresistible deli/sandwich shop in a city we’d be passing around noon. Besides, it was only a 10 minute detour from the interstate to enjoy lunch in a historic Italian American neighborhood in St. Louis. How could we possible drive past?

Gioia’s Deli (1934 Macklind Avenue, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-776-9410, gioiasdeli.com) has anchored a corner of “The Hill” in St. Louis since 1918. It sits across the street from Berra Park in the Italian American neighborhood. Although the park is not named for Yogi Berra, the Yankees catcher and manager did grow up here and locals are happy to point you to his house. We like to imagine that Yogi ate his share of Gioia’s “Famous Homemade Hot Salami Sandwiches” while he was growing up.

We also suspect that the routine has changed very little since Yogi’s time. While you wait your turn in line, you can decide if you are hungry enough for a large sandwich or if you should stick to a small. Most people like the freshly sliced sausage topped with onions, pepperoncini and spicy mustard. Some spring an extra $2 to upgrade to cheesy garlic bread.

At lunch time, many customers their sandwich and go. But there are a few tables both inside and outside if you want to relax and enjoy the scene. The deli makes it own fresh salami from a combination of beef and pork. It’s a soft sausage as opposed to the longer-cured Genoa hard salami that most Americans know. Piled high on the soft cheesy garlic bread that holds the salami slices together, it’s a triumph of both taste and practicality.