Many of Spain’s leading chefs have a way of remembering their roots — and wanting to appeal to a wider audience. It could be a financial stretch to feast at the French dining room Babette or the grill house Leña, both at Puente Romana resort in Marbella. But you can at least get a taste of star chef Dani García’s cuisine at the airport. BiBo Dani García (+34 607 528 879) is open every day from 7 a.m. until 9 p.m. in the passenger-only zone of the first floor departures area at Málaga-Costa del Sol Airport (AGP).
We’ve been following García since his first high profile job leading the kitchen at Tragabuches in Ronda. That was literally decades ago, but he’s always remained a champion of traditional Andalucían foods — often in cleverly reinvented form. His widely copied rabo de toro burger revolutionized the hamburger in Spanish cooking, for example.
He has several casual restaurants under the name BiBo (grupodanigarcia.com/bibo/en/). The airport outlet is derived from them. Much of the day, it serves as a ‶flamenco and tapas bar,″ serving up his intrepretation of many classic tapas to a flamenco soundtrack. We were there early in the morning, so we scoped out prepared food to take with us on the plane. After passing up smoked salmon and crispy fried chicken paninis, we settled on a Málaga classic, the campero malagueño. It’s a sandwich on the round bread called a mollete. Inside are a chicken breast fillet, cheese, lettuce, tomato, two thin slices of boiled ham and mayonnaise spiked with garlic. We could have had them grilled on a panini press, but we chose to take them cool (and less oily) for eating in the air later on. They were as good as any that we’ve ever eaten.