When I asked folks in the spirits industry in northern Kentucky how they took their Bourbon, the answer was invariably the same. “A healthy pour, neat.” Some admitted to adding an ice cube or a few drops of water to open up the taste. But nothing else. These professionals take their spirits seriously and relish the pure flavor and warm glow of unadulterated Bourbon.
Nonetheless, most agreed that Bourbon’s star had risen when the TV series Mad Men revived interest in classic cocktails. The spirit is still riding high as a versatile component of today’s creative cocktail culture. I’m truly not much of a cocktail drinker, so I never ordered a Manhattan or an Old Fashioned and the weather wasn’t cool enough for a Hot Toddy. But a couple of Covington restaurants did tempt me with more unusual concoctions on their cocktail lists.
It’s truly a small world at Agave & Rye (635 Madison Avenue, Covington, 502-360-1060, agaveandrye.com), where the humble taco is a vessel for a range of fillings that span the globe. That could be a fairly traditional mix of carne asada, street corn, cotija cheese, and chile de arbol salsa. The more unusual “Greek Goddess,” a vegan option, is filled with falafel fritters, tabouli, cucumber tzatziki, and crispy carrots.
The short list of “Libations” leans toward Mexico with a range of Margaritas. But when in Kentucky…. I had to try the Bourbon Peach Punch. It’s a refreshing mix of Bourbon, peach juice, fresh ginger, ginger beer, and lime. The smooth drink went down easy but still stood up to the bold food.
BOURBON GOES ALL THE WAY DOWN HOME
I pictured a tall waxy cup with a paper straw at the top, when I ordered a Cheerwine Bourbon Slush at Libby’s Southern Comfort (35 West 8th Street, Covington, 859-261-3106, libbyssoutherncomfort.com). I figured that a cocktail that mixed Bourbon with a uniquely southern cherry-flavored cola just might marry perfectly to a classic Kentucky plate of fried chicken, biscuit, and black-eyed peas.
The food itself was just as I expected—and every bit as delicious as I had hoped. The Slush, however, was an elegant surprise. It was served in a lowball glass over finely crushed ice. All the Maraschino cherries I’ve eaten out of my husband’s Manhattans over the years should have tipped me off that Bourbon and cherry make a natural pairing.
After I got home, I requested the recipe and Libby’s was gracious enough to share it. I’m printing their response, just as they sent it:
“While Libby’s makes their famous Cheerwine slush as a big presentation, for home enjoyment get some cans of Cheerwine soda and freeze in ice cube trays until frozen. Add four cubes in a blender with 2 oz. of fine Kentucky Bourbon (like Buffalo Trace, New Riff or Four Roses) and blend until smooth. Pour in a glass and top with a small amount of liquid soda for an extra fizz or an extra ounce of Bourbon if it has been a hard day.”
Cheerwine soda, by the way was invented in 1917 in North Carolina and persists as a quirky regional alternative to the cola giants. Non-southerners can order Cheerwine from Amazon. It won’t be quite the same, but you can also substitute Cherry Coke. Just don’t tell your southern friends.