In Paris this winter, we visited Saint-Eustache as consolation for the closure of Notre-Dame cathedral. With its soaring spaces and grandest pipe organ in Paris, Saint-Eustache (saint-eustache.org/) provided a real spiritual uplift. Although the church’s present structure dates mainly from the 16th century, part of the plan was loosely modeled on the 12th-13th century French Gothic cathedral—a hint of glory by association.
Saint-Eustache was originally the parish church of the market district, known as Les Halles since medieval times. When Paris moved the central fresh market to the suburbs in 1971, many people viewed the destruction of the old market buildings as a crime against the spirit of the city. One of the side altars in Saint-Eustache memorialized the loss in a mass of statuary by sculptor Raymond Mason. Called Le Départ des Fruits et Légumes du Coeur de Paris, it shows the vendors carrying away their fruits and vegetables. As the artist noted, ‶the market of Les Halles Centrale was the last vestige of the natural world in the city. It is truly a Paradise Lost.″
Long a gaping hole in the ground, the market site evolved into the Châtelet-Les-Halles metro and commuter rail station and the Forum des Halles, the largest indoor shopping mall in the city. The mall is a disappointment for visiting North Americans, who cannot imagine why Parisians would shop there when they have so many great boutiques and legendary department stores. Fortunately, one of the streets that links Les Halles to the Grand Boulevards district of Printemps and Galeries Lafayette also conjures some of the spirit of the lost food marketplace.
‘Bonjour monsieur, bonjour madame’ along rue Montorgueil
Only a half kilometer long, rue Montorgueil proves that while you can take Les Halles out of the heart of Paris, you can’t take the market out of the heart of Parisians. You’ll find a few green grocers, some bakeries, a butcher shop, and a fishmonger—not to mention chocolatiers and tea merchants. Tous les citoyens assemble here to eat, drink, shop, and socialize on the tastiest street in the city. Pedestrians have the right of way, and woe be the driver who attempts to navigate Montorgueil without a compelling reason. You want to see the often abrupt Parisians smile? Just walk down Montorgueil smiling and watch them smile back.
The folks just above are enjoying an early lunch at outdoor tables at Le Compas (62 rue Montorgueil, +33 1 42 33 94 73; lecompas-restaurant.com), which is one of about a zillion contenders for best croque monsieur in Paris, depending on who you ask. Following are a few more peeks at what you’ll see along the street.
Le Compas also offers escargot, but for that most French of delicacies, you should visit L’Escargot (38 rue Montorgueil, +33 1 42 36 83 51; escargotmontorgueil.com). Founded in 1832, it is recognized as a Historic Monument. We suspect that the menu hasn’t changed since the days when Sarah Bernhardt was a habituée. Run since 2013 by the Laporte family, the dinning rooms have been restored to Art Nouveau splendor. Not only can you get escargot with foie gras or with truffle butter, you can order such récherché Parisian dishes as frog’s legs.
How sweet it is at La Maison Stohrer
La Maison Stohrer (51 rue Montorgueil, +33 1 42 33 38 20; stohrer.fr) began proffering its wares in 1730, making the elegant patisserie one of the oldest bakeries in Paris. It was started by Nicolas Stohrer, pastry chef for Louis XV. You’re forgiven for gawking when you walk in, for it’s hard to say which is more beautiful: the cases of pastry or the painted and gilded ceiling executed by the same artist who decorated the Paris Garnier opera house.
The shop is famous for its Baba au rhum, a dessert that the founder is said to have invented to use up some leftover brioche by soaking it in rum, slathering it with apricot jam, and garnishing the whole thing with candied cherries. It’s a bit much for our taste. We’ll happily settle for some of the best éclairs in the world, offered in chocolate, coffee, and salted caramel.
With cheese like this, who wouldn’t smile?
Rue Montorgueil has a couple of superb cheesemongers.
We’re fond of La Fermette (86 Rue Montorgueil, Paris; +33 1 42 36 70; la-fermette-paris.com)—partly for the selection, and partly because the shop bundles assorted slices and buttons of fabulous cheese in bargain packs for a few euros. We’re not too proud to say that we carted a half kilo pack around, bought a loaf of bread and a bottle of wine, and made it a decadent dinner in the lounge of our hotel.