As most of our readers have already surmised, we are first and foremost wine drinkers. But we are also travelers, and sometimes the taste of place comes from a headier libation. Over the years, we have accumulated a liquor cabinet of spirits, apertifs, cordials, and what David’s father used to call “snorts.” (When the last of the sipping whiskey was gone on a Sunday afternoon and the stores were all closed, he’d invariably go to the mixer cabinet and announce, “Let’s have a snort!” Sometimes that meant an evening of Drambuie or anisette, but too sweet was better than dry.)
Some of the bottles shown above are more than mere snorts. They make excellent sippers by themselves. It’s just that we don’t sit around sipping aged rum, brandy, or grappa. (The bottles we do drink are in another cabinet.) But we love all the flavors so we’ve held onto the bottles for more than their decorative virtues. We’ve decided to exploit that cabinet as a gateway to some interesting culinary explorations.
CHICKEN PASTIS
This dish is indebted to a Martha Rose Shulman chicken bouillabaisse recipe we adapted many years ago. For a stronger anise flavor, add some crushed fennel seed to the cooking liquid. It brings back the taste of Marseille, where we bought this bottle.
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 large chicken breast, skinned, boned, and cut in six pieces
generous pinch of saffron (1 gram)
1 juice orange, grated rind and juice
1/3 cup Pastis
1/4 cup olive oil
4 large shallots, peeled and halved lengthwise
2 fennel or anise bulbs, cut into sixths
3 large tomatoes
olive oil to coat
sea salt
1/4 cup Pastis to deglaze
4 cups chicken stock
8 creamer potatoes
1 red pepper, roasted, peeled, and cut in strips.
Directions
One day ahead, combine chicken, saffron, orange peel and juice, Pastis, and olive oil in bowl or storage container. Cover and refrigerate to marinate.
Set oven at 400°F. In a small roasting pan, combine shallots, fennel or anise, and tomatoes. Toss with enough olive oil to coat and sprinkle with salt. Roast 20 minutes. Remove tomatoes. Roast remaining vegetables another 20 minutes. Remove vegetables and deglaze pan with Pastis. When tomatoes are slightly cooled, remove skins and discard. Crush tomatoes in your hands for chunky texture. (Roasting the vegetables can also be done a day ahead; refrigerate until ready to make soup.)
One hour before dinner, add chicken and marinade to pot with chicken stock. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer, then cover and cook 20 minutes. Cut fennel and shallots into eating sized pieces. Add to pot with crushed tomatoes, deglazing liquid, creamer potatoes, and roasted pepper strips. Return to a boil, reduce heat and simmer covered for another 20 minutes. Chicken should be starting to fall apart and potatoes should be cooked through. Adjust salt. Keep warm until serving time. Sprinkle a teaspoon of Pastis into the bottom of each bowl before serving.