As the days suddenly grow shorter and the weather cools, we find our tastes turning to the foods of fall and winter. Squash and pumpkin instead of tomatoes and peppers. Sage and rosemary instead of basil. But we couldn’t let summer pass without one final visit to Woodman’s of Essex (119 Main St., Essex, Mass.; 978-768-6451; woodmans.com). Located on the marshes next to the causeway over the Essex River, Woodman’s is iconic. The establishment claims to have invented the fried clam. Many people dispute that. But no one disputes that since the first batch cooked up in 1914, Woodman’s has pretty much nailed the art of the perfect fried clam.

The restaurant’s success has lifted it from the ranks of mere clam shack. For one thing, it remains open all year. Indoor seating is preferred by many fall patrons, but that misses one of the charms of the place. At Woodman’s you can sit at a picnic table and peek through swaying Phragmites marsh grasses at the mud banks of the tidal river. Beachside clam shacks have gulls waiting to steal your lunch. This marsh-side clam shack has egrets and herons stalking the shallows to gather their own lunch, thank you very much.

Make ours with a side of fries and a paper cup of tartar sauce.