Say “Texas” and most people think “beef.” So the quality of the beef that I enjoyed in San Antonio was in line with my expectations, even at the iconic fast-food joint Whataburger (see previous post). But Pharm Table restaurant (611 S Presa St., Suite 106; (210) 802-1860; pharmtable.com) was a delightful revelation. Chef Elizabeth Johnson is on a mission to surprise diners in this beef-centric state with plant-forward dishes that are delicious, satisfying, and fun to eat.
That’s not to say that Johnson doesn’t take healthy eating seriously. Her plant-forward cuisine is informed by research from the Harvard School of Public Health, among other institutions, and by the principles of Ayurvedic eating.
“I realized that it was my calling to bring vegetables and plants back to the forefront,” she told my friend Patti and me when we settled in for lunch at one of the restaurant’s outdoor tables. Johnson’s menu is heavy on local, seasonal produce, seasoned with an arsenal of spices from around the world.
“Eating a more plant-forward diet can increase your energy,” Johnson assured us. “You can also feel very satisfied without feeling like you’re being deprived,” she commented as Patti and I decided to share a starter of cilantro coconut guacamole.
The guac is a favorite of local diners, many of whom roll the guacamole in collard leaves as if they were eating a taco. Patti and I have shared lots of guacamole over the years, but this was a great twist on an old favorite. I followed up with heirloom corn tortillas filled with seasonal vegetables. Johnson achieves a variety of flavors and textures by serving the vegetables raw, roasted, and pickled. As predicted, I was, in fact, perfectly satisfied.
But for those who don’t consider a meal complete without animal protein, Johnson does create dishes that use small portions of meat or fish. She kindly shared this recipe for Peruvian ceviche. It shows her penchant for clean ingredients minimally processed and attractively presented. (Ōra King salmon is a proprietary breed of fish farmed in New Zealand waters and available worldwide.)
PHARM TABLE PERUVIAN CEVICHE
serves 15
Ingredients
- 4 lb Ōra King salmon, cleaned, diced into cubes
- salt to taste
Tiger’s Milk (Leche de Tigre)
- 32 oz lemon juice, fresh squeezed
- bonito flakes, to taste
- 4 habañero peppers, julienned, seeds reserved for Tiger’s Milk
- 2 celery stalks, finely diced, leaves reserved
- 4 cloves garlic, grated with microplane
- 2 inch piece of ginger, peeled, grated with microplane
- 2 inch piece of turmeric, peeled, grated with microplane
- salt to taste
Garnish
- 3 sweet potatoes, boiled, peeled and mashed
- toasted sesame oil
- black sesame seeds
- herbs to garnish (micro cilantro, basil or oxalis)
- radishes (purple daikon radishes, optional)
Method
Place the fish in a stainless steel bowl over ice and generously salt. This will begin to cure the fish and bring out the proteins in the fish.
Combine the ingredients for the Tiger’s Milk and strain. Add this mixture to the fish in tablespoons and continue to stir the fish. A cloudy white juice will form. This is the key to a good ceviche.
Assemble your garnish on the plate and spoon the ceviche on top and generously spoon the Tiger’s Milk over the ceviche. Serve immediately.