Readers might recall that David and I visited Patzcuaro, Mexico, to be part of the Day of the Dead observances of late October and early November. The trip was everything I hoped it would be — and more. I was heartened and somehow comforted by how naturally Mexicans honor their departed loved ones while simultaneously celebrating life. Folks left favorite foods and drinks at gravesites. Then they headed to the main plaza to eat and drink and embrace life.
The experience so resonated with me that I jumped at the chance to join my friend Patti at Day of the Dead observances in San Antonio, Texas, and Santa Fe, New Mexico. We started in San Antonio, where the self-proclaimed largest Day of the Dead celebration in the United States stretches for more than a week. The highlight is a lighted boat parade along the city’s famous River Walk. But I was equally drawn to some of the quieter moments. I discovered “ofrendas,” the often elaborate altars that honor the dead, throughout the city. The Market Square gathering of Mexican shops and restaurants, featured several ofrendas, including an impressive one in the entry of the legendary Mexican restaurant Mi Tierra (218 Produce Row; 210-225-1262, mitierracafe.com). No surprise. I already knew that food goes hand in hand with Day of the Dead.
It’s probably no coincidence that San Antonio’s Culinaria food festival is scheduled for the lead-up to the city’s Day of the Dead activities. In addition to a series of special dinners, Culinaria organized a Grand Tasting in Travis Park where I sampled five-meat tacos and specialty chorizo, washed down with pours of Texas wine. (Culinaria will be held October 26-29, 2023; see culinariasa.org.)
A neighborhood chock full of tasty food
I found an even greater variety of foods in the Pearl neighborhood at the north end of the River Walk. Anchored by Hotel Emma and a branch of the Culinary Institute of America, the handsome red brick buildings of the former Pearl Brewing Company now hum with boutiques and restaurants. Those eateries seem to span the globe — but emphasize the regional food of South Texas and Mexico. That was certainly the case at Full Goods Diner (200 East Grayson Street, Suite 210, 210-819-4226, fullgoodsdiner.com). I enjoyed a delicious plate of breakfast cheese enchiladas served with an egg cooked sunny side up and a side order of barbacoa.
Another morning I was feeling more continental, so I opted for a slice of quiche at Bakery Lorraine (306 Pearl Parkway #110, 210-862-5582, bakerylorraine.com). I was tempted to order an assortment of the bakery’s beautiful macarons for later. This being South Texas, I opted instead for a Mexican hot chocolate cookie. I’ve tried similar cookies, but Bakery Lorraine’s version was the best. It delivered just the right punch of mouth-warming heat thanks to being rolled in habañero sugar before baking. The bakery kindly agreed to share the recipe (below). I’ve adapted it by cutting the volume to two-thirds of the original. And since habañero sugar is not exactly a household staple for most people, I’ve included directions for making your own.
BAKERY LORRAINE’S MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE COOKIES
Yield 24 cookies
COOKIE DOUGH
- 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
- 1/2 cup cocoa powder
- 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
- 1/3 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/3 teaspoon salt
- 14 tablespoons butter, room temperature
- 2/3 cup dark brown sugar
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1 large egg
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- 1 1/4 cups semisweet chocolate chips
HABAÑERO SUGAR MIX
- 1/2 cup habañero sugar
- 1/2 cup sugar
(If habañero sugar is unavailable, make the mix by adding 1/4 teaspoon powdered habañero pepper to 1 cup sugar.)
DIRECTIONS
Set oven at 350F°.
Sift together into the all purpose flour, cocoa powder, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt. Reserve.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream butter, brown sugar, and sugar with a paddle attachment. Scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl. When the mixture is light and fluffy, add the egg and vanilla. When the egg is mixed in, add the flour mixture. Keep paddling until a cookie dough forms and lastly, add the chocolate chips.
Combine habañero sugar and sugar in a bowl. Using a #20 cookie scoop (about 1/8 cup), form dough balls and roll them in the habañero sugar mix. Place on cookie sheet and flatten with a fork.
Bake the cookies in a 350F° oven for approximately 14 minutes, rotating the cookie sheet halfway through baking time.