Every gardener knows the zucchini problem. When you ordered seeds in January, you were dreaming of ratatouille—maybe even of zucchini bread with sunflower seeds that turn inexplicably green. Then the reality hits about this time of summer. Zucchini sounds like a great idea. So does keeping rabbits—until you’re suddenly overrun with rabbits. Or squash. Pre-pandemic, you could invite friends over, get them well lubricated, and send them home with a bag of zukes. Or bunnies. Such solutions don’t work in the COVID era.

The Greeks take a more pragmatic attitude toward zucchini proliferation. During the season, they throw zukes into everything. One of the tastier light dishes is a bake that falls somewhere between a frittata and an unfussy souffle. There are zillions of different variants, but we found that using cornmeal (or polenta) instead of flour makes it tastier, and Greek yogurt rather than regular makes a creamier dish.

Greek zucchini, polenta, and feta pie

This version is loosely adapted from Diana Henry’s cookbook From the Oven to the Table (Mitchell Beazley, 2019). Note that she also adds a cup of grated pecorino cheese to the egg mixture, which makes the pie somewhat more assertive.

Makes six meze-size slices

2 medium zucchini, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch slices
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 tablespoon Greek oregano
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
5 large eggs, lightly beaten
2/3 cup plain Greek yogurt
1/4 cup instant polenta or corn meal
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fennel fronds
1 clove garlic, finely minced

Set oven to 400°F.

Toss zucchini slices with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and spread on roasting pan in single layer. Sprinkle with oregano, salt, and pepper. Roast for 10 minutes. Lay slices of shallots on top and drizzle with remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Roast another 15 minutes.

Reduce oven to 350°F.

In a large bowl, combine the remaining ingredients and stir to mix well. Place the roasted zucchini and shallots in a 10-inch round casserole or au gratin dish and spoon the egg mixture over the top. Bake in oven for 20-25 minutes until just set and starting to speckle golden on top.