When we stepped into the Mercado Central in Valencia, the first thing we did was to plan where we’d meet when we got separated. We’re really not as direction-challenged as that might sound. It’s hard to imagine – even when you’re standing inside – but the market has a remarkable 929 stalls covering roughly two acres. It’s pretty easy to lose your bearings.

The market is not only one of the largest in Europe. It’s arguably one of the most beautiful. We decided that we would rendezvous at the spot that we couldn’t miss: the central dome where the nave and apse of this gastronomic cathedral cross. Rising above the angular arches of the roofline like a tunnel to the sky, the dome is the centerpiece of the 1914-1928 market designed in Spain’s distinctive Modernisme style. Encircled by tiles and featuring a gallery of high windows, the dome filters soft light into the cavernous interior.

A month is probably not enough time to get to know the market well. Fortunately, even with masks covering their faces, the vendors are proving to be a friendly, helpful lot. We’ve already gotten advice on the best strawberries in season or the best of the local rices for making paella. The stall owner uses senia rice at home and heartily recommends it even though it’s not the most expensive.

Mouth-watering displays conjure up new recipes

Each stall, in fact, is an inspiration. Piles of bright yellow lemons resting below strings of garlic got us thinking of a lemony roast chicken with alioli. (Fresh chickens were a few aisles over.) In three stops, we had the paprika, potatoes, and chorizo for a satisfying bowl of patatas riojanas [https://hungrytravelers.com/patatas-a-la-riojana-feeds-the-pilgrim-body-and-soul/]. Manchego cheese, thin slices of jamon serrano. and a fresh baguette make perfect lunches at a fraction of the price we’d pay at home for these Spanish specialties. We also plan to eat lightly, at least some of the time. It’s hard to resist such seasonal treats as tender asparagus, fresh tomatoes, eggplant, boletus mushrooms, and the bewildering range of shrimp and prawns suddenly turning up in the fishermen’s nets.

It’s going to be a tasty month….

The Mercado Central is open Monday through Saturday from 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; mercadocentralvalencia.es.