Cincinnati chili was the lure. We always have high hopes for any community that has its own food specialty, especially if it’s a signature fast food. It means that the folks who live there take pride in their traditions—and it usually signals a strong dining culture.

That proved to be the case when we spent a few days eating our way around Cincinnati this summer. The Queen City has all the hallmarks of a great dining destination. In addition to that chili, we discovered delicious and eye-poppingly colorful raspberry chocolate chip ice cream at Graeter’s. A welcoming breakfast and lunch place crossed the traditional breakfast sandwich with pimento cheese. We dined at an upscale riverfront barbecue institution as well as an elegant gourmet restaurant whose chef-owner has mentored a generation of chefs. We’ll be telling you about all those and more in upcoming posts.

Findlay Market, feeding Cincinnati since 1852

Cincinnati also proved to have lots of history to rival its bright future, including the oldest fresh food market in Ohio. Located north of downtown in the historic Over-the-Rhine (OTR) neighborhood, Findlay Market (1801 Race Street; 513-665-4839; findlaymarket.org) benefited from a spic-and-span rehabilitation more than a decade ago. It sits in the midst of sudden gentrification in a neighborhood blessed with late 19th century Italianate architecture.

The market and its subsidiary operations play a big role in OTR’s revival. They also serve as the launching pad for a burgeoning gastronomic scene in a city once only known for chili meat sauce and goetta sausage. Open Tuesday-Sunday all year, Findlay has around three dozen merchants under its classic iron market structure and adjoining buildings. Like great public markets the world over, they include butchers, fishmongers, and produce stalls. Several stands are devoted to fast food (tacos, cookies, ice cream) that shoppers either eat on the run or take outside to cafe tables. From March into December, the market also hosts a farmers market and sponsors live entertainment and special events on the surrounding plazas.

Social O.T.R. builds food industry workforce

The Corporation for Findlay Market has its finger in other food-related pies. Right across Elm Street from the market is Social O.T.R. (1819 Elm Street; 513-273-6893; socialotr.com). From the consumer perspective, it’s a lively small restaurant with communal tables that offers small plates, larger plates to share, and lots of snacks and adult beverages. Findlay Market has long been a meeting spot for the city, drawing socially, economically, racially, and ethnically diverse crowds. Social O.T.R. extends the market concept by giving people a place to meet and mingle.

But it’s much more. The spot is a culinary training restaurant that meets complementary needs. The restaurant industry is growing so fast that operators have a hard time filling staff positions. At the same time, a lot of Cincinnatians need jobs. In partnership with CityLink Center, the workforce development program trains students in life skills necessary to land a job in general, and in food service skills necessary to work in the restaurant industry. Social O.T.R. functions as the laboratory for on-the-job training.

Findlay Launch gives springboard to food entrepreneurs

A lively food scene is only as good as its next shop, its next restaurant, its next product. Also located on Elm Street in OTR, Findlay Kitchen (findlaykitchen.org) calls itself a “nonprofit food business incubator.” In effect, it’s bootcamp for aspiring food entrepreneurs. Those accepted for a residency learn business skills, marketing skills, and have use of cooking facilities to help launch a new product or storefront. It’s not generally open to the public, but we got a chance to do a walk-through. With equipment that covers everything from standard bakery mixers to large convection ovens to shrink-wrap packaging lines, Findlay Kitchen lets dreamers become doers and make practical plans for entering the market. Several alumni of the program—including The Arepa Place, Eli’s BBQ, and O.T.R. Bagel Bar—now have brick and mortar presences across the street it in market.

It bodes well for continued great eating in Cincinnati.