In the interest of flying stain-free, I usually try to avoid messy foods when I’m in the airport. But I couldn’t pass up the chance to try the namesake specialty at Gold Star Chili at the airport serving Cincinnati and northern Kentucky.

Chili—most often ladled over a big plate of spaghetti and topped with grated cheddar cheese—has been a Cincinnati specialty since Greek immigrants introduced it in 1922. A century later, Cincinnatians proudly claim chili as a signature food.

As food trends come and go, it’s always comforting to have a satisfying, filling meal that you can count on. The James Beard Foundation even recognized Camp Washington, which opened in 1940, as one of America’s Classics. The Beard list has rarely steered me wrong, so when I visited Cincinnati two years ago, I headed to Camp Washington to try the dish that has proven to have such staying power.

Only Camp Washington has the Beard imprimatur, but two other chains inspire equally fierce loyalty. Cincinnatians regularly debate the merits of Skyline Chili (skylinechili.com) and Gold Star Chili (goldstarchili.com). Greek immigrants opened Skyline in 1949, while Gold Star is a relative newcomer to the Cincinnati chili world. Immigrants from Jordan opened it in 1965.

Both Skyline and Gold Star have several locations, but only Gold Star has secured a spot at the airport. It’s located in the food court in Concourse B (859-767-5612). Cincinnatians favor a fairly mild chili, with lots of warm spices to balance out the heat of the chili powder. Inspired by the spice markets in their native Jordan, the Daoud brothers created a recipe that blends spices from thirteen countries. I only wish they would follow the lead of Camp Washington and offer plastic bibs!